India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [238]
The only attraction in the town itself is famous Kumari Amman Temple (daily 4:30am–noon and 4:30–8:30pm), dedicated to Kanyakumari, a virgin goddess. Devotees enter the temple through the north gate, making their way around various corridors and bridges before viewing the deity, here depicted as a young girl doing penance with a rosary in her right hand. It’s said that her sparkling nose jewel—seen glowing from some distance away—was installed by Parasurama (Lord Rama, an avatar of Vishnu) himself. Non-Hindus wishing to enter the temple must remove shoes, and men must remove shirts and wear a dhoti (although a lungi passes; purchase one before you leave Kovalam). A willing temple priest will lead you on a very brisk (queue-jumping) tour of the temple, ending with the obligatory suggestion that a donation would be quite acceptable.
En route back towards Kerala, you can buy cheap, delicious palm fruits from children on the roadside and visit the fantastic palace in the town of Padmanabhapuram, capital of Travancore until 1790 (see review below). If, for some reason, you get trapped in this ramshackle, pilgrim-choked town, head for Hotel Maadhini (East Car St.; 04652/24-6857 or -6787; www.hotelmaadhini.in; Rs 900–Rs 1,900 double), where you will be woken predawn with tea and an urgent suggestion to watch the rising sun from your balcony. (Note: Kanyakumari sunsets, which are obviously more convenient to reach, also draw a crowd but are only visible mid-Oct to mid-Mar and are not quite as atmospheric, except perhaps for chaitra purnima, the full-moon evening in Apr when the sunset and moonrise can be viewed simultaneously along the horizon.)
Padmanabhapuram Palace Although technically in Tamil Nadu (but a mere 55km/34 miles south of Trivandrum), this gorgeous palace—one of the finest examples of secular architecture in India—was for several centuries the traditional home of Kerala’s Travancore royal family. It’s still well-maintained, and a meditation room features two lamps that have burned since its construction, tended by two dutiful women. Built over a number of generations during the 17th and 18th centuries, the palace exemplifies the aesthetic and functional appeal of Kerala’s distinctive architectural style: sloping tiled roofs; elaborate slatted balconies; cool, polished floors; and slanting walls and wooden shutters—all effectively designed to counter the intense sunlight and heat. The private living quarters of the royal family are a maze of open corridors and pillared verandas; outside, small garden areas feature open courtyards where the sunlight can be enjoyed. Note that the king’s chamber is furnished with a bed made from 64 different types of medicated wood and has its own beautifully decorated prayer room.
Padmanabhapuram is 55km (34 miles) south of Trivandrum. Admission Rs 10. Tues–Sun 9am–4pm. Ticket office closed 1–2pm. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide and must remove footwear.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Backpackers head for the budget hotels on the fringes of Kovalam’s beaches, which, during peak season (Dec–Jan), are completely overrun by tourists and relentless hawkers. With the notable exception of The Leela, most lodging in Kovalam is less pleasant than cheap, and you’re likely to be at the constant mercy of blaring music from the beach and its sprawl of cafes. Note that these cafes are fine for a snack, but each should be judged according to the number of customers. The rule of thumb is: If it’s empty,