India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [239]
The resorts reviewed below have been chosen because they are situated away from mainstream Kovalam and offer peace, tranquillity, and charm, as well as some of the world’s most pristine stretches of coastline. The prize for top location still goes to Surya Samudra; if you haven’t opted to stay here (see below), it’s definitely worthwhile taking a drive out to dine at Surya Samudra’s open air restaurant ( 0471/226-7333). The semicircular terrace is perched high above the ocean and palm-fringed beach and cooled by the fresh sea breezes. Presuming the menu hasn’t changed too dramatically by the time it reopens, you can assume that seafood will be the order of the day: Don’t miss the superb grilled tiger prawns or the fish curry (succulent pieces of white fish in a spicy red sauce; order with chappatis). Vegetarians can opt for the vegetable theeyal (spicy gravy), this time with Kerala paratha (flatbread). And for the truly unadventurous, there is a selection of Western dishes.
Another very pleasant dining venue is The Leela’s loungy beachside restaurant, Tides ( 0471/248-0101; noon–3pm and 7–10:30 or 11pm), which does a feisty selection of Malaysian, Vietnamese, Chinese, and Thai dishes, best appreciated under the stars in the alfresco section (there’s a covered option during the monsoon); in winter there’s also a great barbeque where you can choose from a selection of freshly caught seafood (fish Rs 1,500/kg, tiger prawns and lobster Rs 3,000/kg) dusted with mouthwatering organic lemon-butter; Rs 1,600 gets you a feast-sized seafood platter served with naan bread. Top it all off with chocolate samosas, or water chestnuts in coconut cream.
Note: During the season, there’s entertainment most nights—try avoiding the live bands cranking out Western covers, but some nights there are Kerala martial arts displays or, better still, Indian classical music.
In & Around Kovalam Beach
Not as great on location as the Leela, but worth a mention is the Taj Green Cove Resort ( 0471/248-7733;www.tajhotels.com), offering 59 rooms in a number of blocks set amid 4 hectares (10 acres) of tropically landscaped gardens on the Kovalam Cliffside (some 300m/984 ft. from the beach). Cottages have traditional Kerala-style thatched roofs and are hidden among palm trees—maintaining privacy from the outside, but still offering good views. Rooms aren’t as beautiful as the handsome open-plan lobby-lounge area promises, but they have large picture windows framing either the sea or garden views. Make sure to ask for a sea-view room—at Rs 14,000 a mere Rs 2,000 more than a standard garden view unit (but both much more expensive during the hectic period between Christmas and mid-Jan). Both of the Taj’s restaurants, Jasmine Bay, an alfresco space at the edge of the hotel’s popular infinity pool, and Curries, serve good food, but the place to dine (in season) will be at the new seafood restaurant on the beach. The resort also has a great-looking non-Ayurvedic Jiva spa, but it’s not nearly in the same league as the fabulous spa at The Leela Kempinski (reviewed below), nor as personal as the “light” Ayurvedic treatments on offer at Lagoona Davina (also below)
Lagoona Davina Described as “barefoot chic,” this small, lagoon-facing property was converted into a laid-back boutique sanctuary by adventurer Davina Taylor Phillips over a decade ago. While the tourism boom has spawned encroaching development, the views of the lagoon and beach—where fishermen pull in nets every morning in a kind of synchronized dance—are still splendid. Rooms are small and bathrooms very basic, but there are lovely touches throughout, like hand-loomed linens, silk tented ceilings, a personally selected assortment of toiletries, and the caftans and camisoles Davina has made for you to live in while you’re here. Guests in the main “guest house” (a low-slung, single-story rectangular building facing the lagoon) and more spacious Maharaja rooms also enjoy the services of a personal room attendant; also available are the services of a tailor, and