India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [241]
Located on the other side of Surya Samudra, on Chandra beach, is the very basic Bethsaida Hermitage resort ( 0471/248-1554; fax 0471/248-1554; www.bethsaidahermitage.com). This collection of thatched bamboo and stone beach cottages was begun by a local priest who wanted to start an eco-friendly endeavor that could be used to aid a local orphanage. It’s looking a little run-down at present and not worth booking unless you can reserve one of the most recently built “sea-view” rooms (60€–90€) behind the pool. These rooms are spotless, spacious, and close to the beach. Hot water is at the mercy of an occasionally moody electrical system, and you need to bring your own toiletries. Don’t arrive expecting luxury and you’ll feel good knowing that your room’s rate (slightly overpriced, considering) contributes to the welfare of some 2,500 children. We have had reports from regular guests of the generally wonderful staff getting drunk on the job and then taking a few days to recover—the result being absolutely no service whatsoever for the next few days—rather a daunting prospect. That incident happened over the Christmas–New Year period, however, but we’d strongly advise that you investigate fully the current status of management before booking here.
Out of sight, but not far from here, is Coconut Bay Beach Resort ( 0471/248-0566;www.coconutbay.com), one of the most efficiently run resorts on the coast, with an unpretentious and low-key atmosphere and a very serious focus on Ayurveda. It’s small (only 27 units), but—as is the norm hereabouts—accommodations (which are pretty ordinary, with ugly furnishings) are in a variety of categories, scattered around a hodgepodge of lawns and coco palms strung with hammocks. In its favor, it’s right up against the beach, with a truly mellow atmosphere. If you’re a solo traveler, the best units are one of only five non-air-conditioned beach rooms ( 098-4706-9654; 46€–71€ single, depending on season, including all meals), which are off to one side and right above the beach; book room 301 and you have a semiprivate veranda area with the best view at the resort. Great views, too, from deluxe beach villas 203, 205 and 206 (109€–153€ double with all meals) and superior deluxe villa 201 (152€–190€ double with all meals). As with all the Ayurvedic resorts (and this one, too, is Green Leaf accredited), the specialty here is on long-stay treatment packages, so check the website for the lowdown on all the deals.
Karikkathi Beach House The tranquillity of its location—right on Surya Beach, but 400m (1,312 ft.) from the nearest vehicle access point—will leave you breathless. Though it’s not nearly as elevated at Surya Samudra (and you may miss the pool), the advantage here is the immediacy of the seafront. For this is a beach resort in the true sense—a set of two pretty bungalows that compel you to spend time dawdling across the sand and frolicking in the waves (you need to be a fairly strong swimmer). No resort activities and no meal times—you set your own rules. Each cottage has two en suite double bedrooms linked by a lounge. They’re exquisitely decorated—not too modern, and sufficiently rustic that you still feel yourself at the edge of the beach; very romantic. There’s no TV or air-conditioning, but plenty of natural ventilation (and fans) instead. We can hardly imagine a finer place to do nothing but imbibe the simpler things—fishing boats bobbing on the water, the moon glimmering off its surface, and a private staff to take care of you; meals are served in your cottage or on the verandah. Power outages are inevitable, but unlikely to spoil your mood.
Cliff Beach Garden, Mulloor Thottam (south of Kovalam, north of Chowara, via Nagar Bhagavathi Temple) Pulinkudi, Thiruvananthapuram 695 521. 098-4706-9654 or 0471/240-0956.