India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [242]
Surya Samudra This is Kerala’s most famous resort, and deservedly so. When we were researching this edition, an all-out renovation was underway, and neither the security guard nor builders would let us have a peek at what was going on. Surya traditionally accommodated a maximum of 44 guests, all in traditional-style cottages perched high on a terraced hillside overlooking the sea and two pretty beaches—and it has always been this setting, amid gardens of hibiscus trees, banyans, and coconut palms interspersed with rustic pathways and statues, that lent it immeasurable charm. Surya was never as slick as a five-star hotel, but the atmosphere was romantic and the setting totally glorious. They’ve added quite a few new cottages and have gone to town in terms of luxury, but we’re hoping the extensive upgrade of facilities won’t detract from the original charm and that it’ll emerge better than before, with a more attentive staff (which has traditionally been quite lazy) and many small details (like loose toilet seats) sorted out. But with the way development has been going along this stretch of Kerala, the recent expansion may, sadly, compromise the ambience completely.
Pulinkudi, Mullar P.O. Thiruvananthapuram 695 521. 0471/226-7333. Fax 0471/226-7124. www.suryasamudra.com. 32 units. Oct–Apr 15 225€–250€ rock garden double, 300€–400€ heritage double, 1,100€ Banyan Tree Bungalow; Apr 16–Sept 140€–150€ rock garden double, 175€–225€ heritage double, 600€ Banyan Tree Bungalow; add 15% for extra bed. Massive hike in rates Dec 22–Jan 8 when a 4-night minimum stay is enforced. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, poolside bar; airport transfers (chargeable); Ayurvedic spa; babysitting (with prior booking); boating; small library; large outdoor pool; room service; yoga. In room: A/C, minibar.
Chowara Beach
Located below the small village of Chowara, within verdant cliffs towering along it, this long stretch of powdery white sand is located 12km (7 1⁄2 miles) south of Trivandrum and 30 to 40 minutes from the airport. Chowara Beach is not only very pretty (the same cannot be said of most of the accommodations here), but the sea here is usually rather tame—hardly surprising then that it has several resorts strung along it, some would say too many resorts, in fact. However, you’re unlikely to end up staying here unless you’ve come for a fairly stringent Ayurvedic program (which is the raison d’être for most of these places anyway. The exception is Travancore Heritage, which—despite having the most sophisticated-looking Ayurvedic center—has a slightly more leisurely approach; trouble is their best accommodations are a bit of a slog from the beach. Besides the places we’ve reviewed below, one other option is well-priced Nikki’s Nest (Azhimala Shiva Temple Rd., Pulinkudi, Chowara; 0471/226-8821, -8822, or 0471/226-7822; www.nikkisnest.com; 90€–125€ double with air-conditioning, including breakfast, 15% tax extra), which unfortunately suffers from interminable early morning temple noise that kicks off each day at 5am. If you can endure the unexpected wake-up or are an early riser, it’s not too bad a choice, with a fairly welcoming staff and on-hand owners to make your stay feel quite comfortable. Accommodations are in slightly dark thatch-roofed cottages (rooms 203 and 204 are closest to the beach) or in restored traditional wooden Kerala houses (202 is the one to book here; alternatively, 201; 105€–125€ double); half are air-conditioned, and they’re neat and tidy but (like Coconut Lagoon; reviewed above) ultimately rather kitsch