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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [243]

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and with rather unhandsome finishes (bathrooms are really quite hideous, with massive frosted glass sliding shower doors). Again, the reason you’re here is for the Ayurvedic treatments; like Somatheeram, this place has Green Leaf accreditation, and after your massage you can trundle down to the beach or spend hours daydreaming at the restaurant, which has equally spectacular views and heavenly fresh fruit juices.

Note: All of these “resorts” offer a wide variety of packages that include specified or personalized treatments and therapies, often based on stays of between 2 weeks and 1 month—this is their big draw. In fact, these resorts exist more as centers for Ayurvedic patients than as vacation retreats. If you’re not interested in Ayurveda—or perhaps yoga—the best options here are Thapovan and Travancore Heritage, which are less congested by robe-wearing guests wandering through the grounds in a post-treatment daze.

Dr. Franklin’s Panchakarma Institute & Research Centre It’s not pretty, but if you’re serious about Ayurveda and don’t intend wiping out your savings, this is a good budget option, offering perhaps the most focused Ayurvedic experiences in south Kerala (as the name suggests). Dr. Varghese Franklin has more than 50 years’ worth of experience as a practitioner (he started Somatheeram’s Ayurvedic center), and offers a host of therapeutic programs, longevity treatments, and specialized slimming programs, as well as practical training workshops (such as “You and Your Spine”). Massage, yoga, and Ayurvedic cooking courses are also conducted here. There are no suites or fancy rooms—the basic bedrooms have doubles beds with mosquito nets, tiled floors, and neat attached bathrooms (shower only); deluxe units have private patios where you can sip herbal tea between treatments. For mega-budgeteers, there are a few simple mud huts, each with twin beds and attached bathrooms—useful if you’re planning on hanging around for longer courses. The grounds are comfortable enough, but this isn’t a resort, so you’ll probably want to take full advantage of the free shuttle to the beach (although the 10-min. walk isn’t too bad).

Chowara P.O., Thiruvananthapuram 695 501. 0471/248-0870 or 0471/226-7974. Fax: 0471/226-8071. www.drfranklin.com. franklin@dr-franklin.com. 25 units, some with shower only. Aug–Mar 38€–45€ deluxe double, 48€–55€ A/C deluxe double, 28€–32€ special room double, 18€–20€ Panchakarma hut double; Apr–July 28€ deluxe double, 38€ A/C deluxe double, 20€ special room double, 15€ Panchakarma hut double. Extra bed 20% of rate. Rates include breakfast; taxes extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; airport transfers (free w/Ayurveda packages); cooking courses; cultural performances; Wi-Fi (in restaurant; free); yoga. In room A/C (in some) and fans, TV (except in huts), no phone in huts.

Manaltheeram Ayurveda Beach Village With Green Leaf accreditation for its Ayurvedic center, a great location right on the beach (not to mention a well-positioned sea-view pool and open-air restaurant from where you can see where the beach disappears into the horizon), and relatively flat terrain (meaning there’s far less hiking up and down stairs than at nearby Somatheeram; reviewed below), Manaltheeram is still a contender as one of the better “treatment resorts” in southern Kerala. Most accommodations are in “Ordinary” and “Special” (read: sea-view) cottages: These are standard thatched round villas. Book Special cottages 525 to 530 for the most privacy—they’re better value than the so-called “Kerala houses,” although there’s a 5% surcharge for preselecting your choice of digs (although you can probably bargain this away). As with any of these Ayurveda retreats, the best deals are on packages that last at least 2 weeks.

Chowara P.O., Thiruvananthapuram 695 501. 0471/226-6222. Fax 0471/226-7611. www.manaltheeram.com. mail@manaltheeram.com. 57 units. Nov–Apr 80€–92€ standard double, 92€–106€ garden cottage double, 116€–134€ special cottage double, 158€–180€ standard Kerala House double, 210€–242€ A/C Kerala House double; May–Oct 56€ standard

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