India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [244]
Somatheeram Ayurvedic Health Resort As much beachfront hospital as vacation destination, this resort has been inundated with awards for “Best Ayurvedic Centre”—they’re state-issued, however, by people with no knowledge of what a vacation is about. The primary reason to book here is for a Somatheeram package: Massages and treatments are provided in a hygienic environment by a team of experienced, professional staff (12 doctors and more than 50 therapists) who offer serious Ayurvedic rejuvenation and therapeutic packages (average stay here is 2 weeks) rather than just luxurious pampering. The most interesting accommodations are in traditional wooden Kerala houses, which have the standard shaded verandas and hand-carved pillars and are usually the most comfortable rooms; some (like 109 and 110) have open air bathrooms. Better value is to opt for an ordinary nalukettu room in one of these four-bedroom cottages—the best by far (for the fabulous sea views) are nos. 102 and 101.
Tip: Don’t confuse this place (the one with the slick, contemporary S-design branding) with neighboring Somatheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort ( 0471/226-8101;www.somatheeram.in), which is the result of a split in the family business. The “Health Resort” has the more convenient location for the beach and better accommodations, extensively renovated in 2009. The “Beach Resort” is owned by the same brother who owns nearby Manaltheeram Ayurvedic Beach Resort (reviewed above); all three offer equitable Ayurvedic packages.
Chowara P.O. 695 501. 0471/226-6501. Fax 0471/226-6505. www.somatheeram.org. info@somatheeram.org. 66 units. Nov–Apr 80€–92€ standard double, 116€–134€ special cottage double, 158€–180€ Kerala standard double, 210€–242€ Kerala deluxe double, 260€–300€ Sidhartha suite double; May–Oct 56€ standard double, 86€ special cottage double, 120€ Kerala standard double, 148€ Kerala deluxe double, 180€ Sidhartha suite double. 20% extra per person sharing. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; airport transfers (Rs 675; free for certain Ayurveda packages); Ayurvedic center; cultural performances; Internet (near reception; Rs 2/min.); library; large outdoor pool; room service; tailor; yoga & meditation. In room A/C (in some) and fans, fridge (in deluxe units).
Thapovan Heritage Home Divided into two distinct properties—one up the hill and one quite close to the edge of the beach—this is a good budget choice with a more salubrious atmosphere, and better looking (if very basic) accommodations, than are found at Nikki’s Nest. It’s also more intimate in terms of room numbers and spread over a good swath of land. The two big drawbacks are likely to be the absence of air-conditioning (but if you’ve come for a rejuvenating vacation with Ayurvedic treatments, then you’ll know that chilled air is ultimately incompatible with good health); fortunately, the sea is near enough for you to cool off there (a good reason to choose the seaside property). So turn on the fans and open all the windows—or find a spot in the garden where you can relax with the dull roar of the ocean not too far off. Beachfront rooms (in a series of sea-facing cottages, two rooms per cottage) have direct beach access (201–204 and 401–404 are best)—a boon for anyone who gets frustrated at being able to see but not touch. Rooms are a little boxy, with basic furnishings and finishes, but very clean and have cane chairs, yoga mats, and a shared porch. This is a relatively well-kept secret, and one of the better values hereabouts.
Nellikunnu, Mulloor P.O., Thiruvananthapuram 695 521. 0471/248-0453, -2430, or 93-4975-2072. www.thapovan.com.