India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [257]
Harivihar Heritage Home In the heart of Kozhikode, but a million miles from the hustle and bustle of the city, this is the gracious family home of Neethi Srikumar and her husband, both doctors and humble hosts who’ve crafted a beautiful guesthouse from their 170-year-old royal homestead. Visitors from across the globe come to learn about (and experience) the healing art of Ayurveda (it’s Kerala’s only Green Leaf–certified homestead) or immerse themselves in Indian culture and philosophy—there’s an important Kalari center nearby, and you can even ask for a session with an astrologer. Or head out on a tour of the best gold, silver and textile shops, before visiting the centuries-old spice market. Accommodations—like the entire house—are elegantly minimalist; antiques set off the original features of the house with a faint nod to contemporary flair. You’ll leave this haven rejuvenated, restored, and ready to tackle anything. Be prepared, though: no alcohol, and no meat is served here.
Bilathikulam, Calicut 673 006. 0495/276-5865.www.harivihar.com. admin@harivihar.com. 7 units, all with shower only. 104€ double. Rates include all meals and taxes. No credit cards. Amenities: Dining room; airport transfers (Rs 500–Rs 800; free for stays of 6 nights or more); astrology sessions; Ayurvedic center; bathing pond (pool with untreated water); cultural performances (on request); Internet (for e-mail checks only); small library; shopping trips; yoga. In room: A/C (in 2 rooms).
Getting the Most out of Kozhikode
Since tourism in Kozhikode has never been a major industry, it takes local smarts to get the lowdown on the city, learn about its historically significant places and know how to bargain properly in its best markets and shops. The best local guide is Mr. Mohan, and you’ll need to book him in advance to accompany you as you explore by car (which you must arrange); he’ll charge around Rs 500 for half a day; call him at 94-4607-8996, or have the folks at Harivihar make all the arrangements.
In the Wyanad
It takes about 2 hours to drive the 90km (56 miles) from the coastal city of Kozhikode to Vythiri, the nearest village to many of Wyanad’s resorts, the best of which is Tranquil (reviewed below). Note that the owners of Green Magic Nature Resort—once considered “the best tree-house experience in Asia,” but which received some bad press in recent years—have recently launched a sequel to their first project. Green Magic Nature Resort 2 offers an altogether more rustic treetop stay than you’ll get at Tranquil, but if you choose to investigate further, start at www.tourindiakerala.com. Besides Tranquil, which is a marvelous place to discover plantation life while chilling out (and eating well) in a veritable rainforest, you may want to check out the 36-unit Vythiri Resort ( 04936/25-5366 or -5367; www.vythiriresort.com), not least for its excellent Serena spa with Ayurvedic facilities. If it’s not too crowded, the atmosphere can be enchanting (if totally resortlike), with monkeys playing in the trees, and a rope bridge over the fast-moving stream leading to the restaurant and pool. Doubles cost around Rs 6,500 but for an extra Rs 1,000 you can stay in a suite; all meals are included, as is morning yoga and meditation.