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There’s also a chance to stay in one of their ingenious treehouses, smartly decorated and taking full advantage of their setting right in the midst of the forest; Rs 12,500 gets you a memorable night high above the forest floor, with matchless morning views into the thick, slowly clearing mist. One drawback: This resort is extremely popular with large family and tour groups, especially in the summer, so if you’re looking for a little more peace and quiet, head instead to Edakkal Hermitage (reviewed below), which really puts you far off the beaten track and in the lap of mesmerizing scenery just 12km (7 1⁄2 miles) from the town of Sultan’s Battery. Another good choice that’s wonderfully intimate is Fringe Ford (Cherrakarra P.O., Talapoya Post, Mananthavadi; 98-4544-2224), a colonial bungalow situated on a 400-hectare (1,000-acre) estate that’s fabulously cut off from the world, but doesn’t hold back on home comforts and excellent scenery. Built by a British settler almost a century ago, Fringe Ford was initially cultivated for pepper, cardamom, and coffee but the current owner has let the jungle reclaim most of that—now, once again, elephants, leopards, and giant Malabar squirrels call the rain-soaked hills home. Doubles run Rs 4,000 to Rs 5,700, including all meals, tea, and snack, and a pickup from Thalapoya, the nearest village; the rate also includes the services of a guide for treks within the estate.

Edakkal Hermitage Located near the Edakkal Caves (where Neolithic carvings are a fleeting distraction from natural beauty), this is a rustic hermitage in the true sense. Each of the simple, neat cottages (with wooden floors and basic tiled washrooms) is named after a world-famous cave site; most have huge windows affording extraordinary views of the Western Ghats. Although the rooms themselves are nothing special (except perhaps for the giant naturally occurring boulders that burst through the wall), you should book either Lascaux or adjacent Chauvet—the gigantic rocks out front form natural terraces. Or, for better privacy, ask for the hilltop twin cottage, but prepare for a serious climb up. The treehouse is more suitable as a thrilling adventure for youngsters than a place you want to relax in (there’s no hot water). Meals are for some the biggest joy here—on your first night, you dine by candlelight in a natural cave; it’s an utterly romantic experience. A laid-back, battery-recharging kind of place—bring a pile of books and prepare to lose track of time.

Wyanad 673 592. 04936/26-1178. Reservations: 04936/22-1860, 04936/26-0123, 98-4700-1491 or 94-4726-2570. www.edakkal.com. 7 units. Rs 3,450–Rs 4,500 double, Rs 1,000 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, TV lounge; transfers (Rs 15/km.); Ayurvedic massage center; badminton; table tennis. In room: No phone.

Tranquil Located at the edge of the Wyanad National Park, this is one of the best ways to experience life on a 160-hectare (400-acre) working coffee plantation, filled with the warm hospitality of Victor Dey and his wife, Ranjini. Standard accommodations are forgettable, but it would be almost unthinkable to pass up the chance to sleep in one of the two treehouses and fall asleep to the cacophonous chorus of cicadas and myriad other forest sounds that work like a natural orchestra all around you as you float high above the rainforest canopy. There are two options here: you can request the sumptuous “tree villa” 40m (131 ft.) aboveground and spread across three Flame of the Forest trees. It’s equipped with the comforts of home (even DVD) and has a private deck with cane furniture. The two fully functioning bathrooms come with flush toilet and shower. The second, more authentic, treehouse is no less comfortable, but more compact, and with entirely different scenery, and a stream gushing directly below you. If you’re afraid of heights, opt for the deluxe room in the main house. The Deys, both fine raconteurs, arrange plantation tours, and there are various walks on the estate, all signposted, taking you through fabulous scenery.