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from the top of the watchtower you should be able to see the Western Ghats, while from the fort’s ramparts you’ll get a good idea why this was considered such a useful spot from which to keep watch over the coast. The fort ( 0467/227-2900 or -2007) is open to visitors daily between 9am and 6pm; admission is Rs 100 (ticket sales until 5pm only). The future of the area is reaching a tipping point as developers are in the process of starting up half a dozen hotels in the immediate vicinity of the fort—while this signals much-needed investment, it also means that the time to visit is now. South of Bekal the tiny market town of Nileshwar is where boats are stationed for trips along the Valiyaparamba, northern Kerala’s very own backwaters, which remain uncluttered and totally undiscovered compared with the touristy backwaters of the south (admittedly, there isn’t quite so much to see, either). Trips along the river can be arranged through Neeleshwar Hermitage (see “Where to Stay,” below).

For an experience that might touch you spiritually, a worthy visit in this part of Kerala is to Anandashram , also known as “The Abode of Bliss,” a thoroughly tranquil center for meditation and worship in the town of Kanhangad ( 0467/220-3036; www.anandashram.org; papa@anandashram.org). The ashram was founded in 1931 by Swami Ramdas and Mother Krishnabai (lovingly called Beloved Papa and Pujya Mataji); they’ve both passed on, but continue to be venerated at the ashram where their teaching—that “to love all is the true Bhakti of God”—is the central tenet of life for thousands of devotees. One of the central activities here is for rows of devotees to wander through the grounds chanting the holy phrase “Ram Nam”—it’s an attempt to spread the holy vibrations throughout the ashram in order to help disciples attain a higher state of mind. The ashram has a continuous program of chanting and readings, starting at 5am and going on until 9:30pm each day.

Although more specifically “Hindu,” also worth visiting is the nearby Swami Nithyananda Ashram, where there are 44 meditational caves created during the first quarter of the last century, this time by another famous guru who spent most of his time in nothing but a loincloth. The caves can be visited between 5:30am and 5:30pm, and afterwards you can take a look at the north Indian-style temple perched on top of the caves. Unlike the majority of Kerala’s temples, foreigners aren’t banned from entering here.

Placating the Gods with Theyyams

Peculiar to the tribal region of northern Malabar, this ritual dance form evolved as a means of placating ancient village gods and ancestors. Combining temple ritual, rustic ballads, and folk art, theyyams are essentially representations of the collective consciousness of the village. Heavily made-up men with masks, elaborate costumes, spectacular jewelry, and often 2m-high (61⁄2-ft.) headgear essentially become oracle-like incarnations or manifestations of the godhead or of a valorous ancestor. The ceremony begins with a song of praise, performed in honor of the presiding deity; this is followed by a dance strongly influenced by Kalaripayattu, the traditional Kerala martial art thought to predate the better-known Far Eastern forms like kung fu. Theyyams traditionally last an entire night and include a great deal of music, singing, and lighting of torches—oil lamps are ceremoniously brandished as shields and swords, and you may witness hypnotic music, prophetic moments, and even fire-walking. Theyyams are usually held between November and April (the sacred season), usually in a specially allocated temple or family compound. If you stay at a place like Neeleshwar Hermitage, staff will always know when and where performances are happening and will happily arrange all the details for a visit. To ensure your chances of seeing a performance, visit Sri Muthappan Temple at Parassini Kadavu, 18km (11 miles) north of Kannur, which has early morning and evening performances throughout the year. However, you’ll need to be a bit more proactive if you want to track down an authentic