India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [261]
Where to Stay
By a long stretch, the best place to overnight in the northernmost part of Kerala is Neeleshwar Hermitage (reviewed below), nestled on the edge of a spectacularly pristine stretch of seemingly endless beachfront near the lively town of Kanhangad (which is where you’ll alight if you’re arriving by train). Neeleshwar is not only within easy striking distance of Bekal Fort (some 19km/11 3⁄4 miles north), but is also convenient for all the other attractions of this part of Kerala, not least of which is a designated Olive Ridley hatching area (the turtles usually lay their eggs in July and August, but this can be delayed till as late as October). There is also a more old-fashioned homestay-style option, a family run guesthouse in Thalassery, just south of Kannur, called Ayisha Manzil (reviewed below).
Ayisha Manzil Occupying a majestic cliff-top position with a terrace overlooking the sea, this lovely two-story mansion was built by an East India Company tradesman in 1862. Bought by a family of Muslim spice traders in 1900, today it is still run by the Moosas, and combines modern facilities (like a beautiful pool overlooking the ocean) with sumptuous wooden antiques, unique family heirlooms, and ancient plumbing. Traditional Keralite and Malabari dishes are served in the family dining room, and Faiza, the lady of the house offers a course in local Mappila cookery which she’s even presented in France. Rooms differ in size and layout, but all have loads of character, with tall four-poster beds, ancient light fittings, high ceilings, and enormous drench showers. Insist on an upstairs sea-facing room, where you’ll have more privacy and splendid views across cobalt seas. Outings to Thalassery’s fruit markets, temples, and the local martial arts school are arranged, as are tours through the property’s original cinnamon plantation, apparently once the largest in Asia.
Court Rd., Thalassery 670 101. 0490/234-1590. cpmoosa@rediffmail.com. 6 units. Rs 11,500 double. Rates include all meals, taxes, and beach transfers. No credit cards. Closed Apr 15–July. Amenities: Dining room; large outdoor pool. In room: A/C, no phone.
Neeleshwar Hermitage Behind a patch of pristine, virgin beach tucked off to the side of a peaceful fishing village this is paradisiacal Kerala still undiscovered by mass tourism. It seems almost a shame to let this secret out of the bag, but it offers a taste of Kerala before it became famous. Accommodations are in idiosyncratic Kerala-style cottages with coco palm thatch roofs that echo the homes of local fishermen—rooms are large, high-ceilinged, and well thought out with great big beds, luscious linens, and chic open-to-the-elements bathrooms built around coconut palms. The beach is a short stroll away from your private porch, but staff organize all kinds of outings, and at night there are visits by cultural performers, including demonstrations of Kalari and various dance forms. It’s a well-run, lovely little operation and surely a blueprint for how we wish tourism could run everywhere. Note: This is a strictly no-smoking resort, with a no-plastic policy, among other environmental initiatives.
Ozhinhavalappu P.O., Neeleshwar, Dist. Kasaragod 671 314. 0467/228-7510, or 0467/228-8876 through -8878. Fax: 0467/228-7500. www.neeleshwarheritage.com. crh@vsnl.net. 16 units. Oct–Mar Rs 14,000 sea view double, Rs 11,500 garden view double, Rs 3,000–Rs 3,400 extra bed; Apr–Sept Rs 10,150 sea view double, Rs 7,950 garden view double, Rs 2,200–Rs 2,600 extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, club house w/TV, bar (planned); airport transfers (from Mangalore; Rs 3,800 A/C, Rs 3,300 non-A/C); Ayurvedic and general massage center; bicycles; cooking classes; cultural