India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [269]
The 57m (187-ft.) whitewashed goparum marking the entrance to the 9th-century Shaivite Ekambareswara Temple (Puthupalayam St.; 6am–12:30pm and 4–8pm; non-Hindus not allowed in sanctum), Kanchi’s largest, was added as late as the 16th century. Through a passageway, visitors enter a courtyard and the “thousand-pillared” hall (though the number of pillars has dwindled significantly over the years). Within the temple, a mango tree believed to be 2,500 years old apparently yields four different varieties of the fruit. Legend has it that it was here Shiva and Parvati were married, and that Parvati fashioned a lingam (phallic symbol) of earth, one of the five sacred Hindu elements. As a test of her devotion, Shiva sent a flood through the town that destroyed everything in its path except the lingam, which she protected from the deluge with her body. (Tip: Be on the lookout for touts who will aggressively try to get a donation out of you at this temple.)
Dedicated to Shakti, which celebrates creation’s female aspect, the 14th-century Kamakshi Amman Temple (Mangadu; daily 6am–12:30pm and 4–8:30pm) was built by the Cholas. Apparently, the tank there is so sacred that demons sent to bathe were cleansed of their malevolent ways and the goddess Kamakshi (a form of Parvati) is thanked for luring and marrying Shiva in Kanchipuram (every Feb or March the lover deities are carried here on massive chariots—a temple festival you will see almost everywhere at certain times of the year). Other worthwhile temples include Vaikunta Perumal Temple and Varadaraja Temple, both of which are dedicated to Vishnu.
Note that, like elsewhere, Kanchi’s temples close from 12:30 until 4pm, which means that you’ll need to head out rather early or—better still—arrive in time for evening puja (prayer). However, traffic into and out of Chennai can get hellish during peak hours. If you’re hot and hungry, head for the air-conditioned room at the Saravana Bhavan (there are two outlets, one at 504 Gandhi Rd; the other on Nellukkara Rd near Sri Kusal; both 6am–10:30pm), where you can feast on reasonably priced South Indian dosas (savory pancakes) along with delicious vegetarian thalis (multicourse platter).
Kanchipuram is 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai, taking 90 minutes to 2 hours to drive. It has no good accommodation options, hence our suggestion that you do this as a day trip from Chennai, or en route to Mamallapuram, leaving early enough to see the temples in the morning and arriving in Mamallapuram in time for a seafood lunch. Ask about guided tours of the temple town at the tourist office, or arrange for a guide along with a driver in Chennai. Otherwise, guides can be picked up around Kailasnath Temple for around Rs 250 to Rs 350; ask to see certification.
A Shrine to Shakti & Silk
In general, Indian visitors are drawn to Kanchipuram for two main reasons: its famed Kamakshi Amman temple is one of India’s three holiest shrines to Shakthi, Shiva’s female form, depicted as his consort, and—with 75% of the population employed in the hand-loom industry—its superb silk. The city is famous for producing the most exquisite hand-loomed silk saris in the world—called Kanjeevarams, the bridalwear of choice that become coveted heirlooms. A single Kanjeevaram sari costs anything from Rs 2,500 to Rs 100,000 or more, and can—depending on the intricacy of the pattern (often taken from temple carvings) and vividness of the colors (zari, gold thread, is often interwoven with the silk)—take from 10 days to a month to weave. Of course, you don’t have to wear a sari to covet the silk; plenty of haute couture designers have discovered its beauty, and any fashionista with international aspirations will include an item made from Kanchipuram silk on her ultimate wish list.
Tamil Temples: What to Wear & When to Visit
Tamil Nadu’s temples teem with devotees, and viewing their carvings and