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By Root 2476 0

shrines as a non-worshipper is a privilege. Visitors are expected to follow the same dress code as devotees: women must bare neither their shoulders nor their legs—wear long dresses or skirts (or trousers if you must); shirts or T-shirts must have sleeves, or you may cover straps with a loose shawl. Men may not wear shorts (though dotis are allowed). No one may wear shoes of any description inside the temple; leave them outside, or, if there is one, at the depot you’ll find at the entrance (have Rs10 handy to tip the man who looks after them). If you’re concerned about leaving an expensive pair of sandals in a stranger’s hands, purchase a cheaper pair. Note that all temples close during the midday heat—between noon and 12:30pm and reopen at 4pm; time your visit accordingly. It is allowed to take photographs but use your common sense and do not intrude on people who are here to worship—switch your flash off and/or keep it pointed at inanimate objects. Temple elephants may be photographed but usually only if you are donating a rupee and been/being blessed; again, if you use an intrusive flash, restrict yourself to only one photograph.

WHERE TO STAY

Chennai has a large inventory of business-orientated hotels, providing reliable comfort and standardized service; the option that stands head and shoulders above the rest is the lovely Taj Connemara, the only hotel that has an old-world charm along with five-star service and efficiency and offering better value than it’s glitzy big brother, Taj Coromandal (though the latter, being the most expensive hotel in town, is good for spotting local celebs). The Courtyard Marriot is also a solid choice, though the lack of pool is a drawback, and Raintree (reviewed below) has the edge in terms of atmosphere and eco-credentials. Those on a budget should look no further than Lemon Tree (reviewed below), or Chennai’s first B&B, Footprint. If you have no interest in the city and want to immerse yourself directly in a festive vacation atmosphere, you can also head straight down the coast to Fisherman’s Cove, one of Tamil Nadu’s most charming resorts, located right on the beach, and a mere 50 minutes’ drive (28km/17 miles) from Chennai airport (and about 20km/12 miles from Mahabalipurum).

Note that if you’re just in transit, a few good hotels are located near the airport, the best of which is the low-rise Trident ( 044/2234-4747; www.tridenthotels.com). It’s 3 minutes away from the airport (airport transfers are free); the CBD is about 20 minutes away. Staffers have all benefited from the Oberoi school of training, so service levels are among the best in the city, with facilities very much aimed at the business traveler. Mindful of their core market, rooms are also soundproofed, with blackout blinds to further cocoon the potentially jet-lagged traveler. The pool area is great; you’d never know you were in a semi-industrial area (until aircrafts take off, of course). If the rates strike you as steep (from Rs 10,500 double), you should see what neighbor Radisson GRT (www.radisson.com) is offering; at press time it was pretty identical, but rates for both hotels change daily and can be heavily discounted depending on availability; rooms at Radisson have undergone a makeover and are looking more plush (if a little over-furnished) than the Trident, and it has one of Chennai’s most celebrated restaurants (see dining below), but when it comes to service (and pool) the Trident has the edge.

Note: Many of the city’s upmarket hotels offer significant discounts on published rates depending on occupancy; so do check online and use the rates below only as guidelines. Note also that there is a luxury tax of 12.5% on all hotel rooms (10.3% on services like Wi-Fi or airport transfers); quoted rates rarely include this.

Footprint B&Bs are virtually unheard of in India (“homestay” is the term here, with a potential lack of privacy that that may imply), but hopefully Footprint, tucked away on the second floor of an apartment building behind the ITC Park Sheraton Hotel, is the start of a new trend. Brainchild