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as yet (furniture would need a similar investment) so final opinions are tempered (but do write and inform us of yours!). Right next door, at 36 Rue Dumas, is Dumas Guest House ( 0413-2225726;www.dumasguesthouse.com) another 17th-century colonial heritage building that has been converted into a simple guest house offering eight clean but spartan rooms, surrounded by nice gardens, and a deal at R 1,500 double. For spotlessly clean budget accommodations right on the sea, look no further than Sea Side Guest House (14 Goubert Ave.; 0413/233-6494). It’s basically a small hostel-like hotel, run by the Aurobindo Society, so service is either benign or indifferent, and there are no real amenities. But the combination of location and price is unbeatable: a double A/C room with sea view costs a mere Rs 775; sea-facing suites cost Rs 975 a day; extra mattress Rs 150. The only possible irritant is the fact that the gates are locked at 11:15pm, and no alcohol is allowed on the premises. It’s understandably popular, so book well in advance.

Hotel de l’Orient More guesthouse than hotel, this slightly run-down but exceptionally characterful 1760s manor house is in the heart of the French Quarter. Each of the guest rooms—set around an inner courtyard shaded by citrus and neem trees—are furnished with French colonial antiques, capturing the period grandeur of a colonial nobleman’s mansion, though not all rooms are created equal, and not everyone likes the slightly decaying look. Top favorites are Karikal (a truly “Grand Room” with terrace and veranda, Rs 6,000) and Yanaon (a bargain, given its size, at Rs 4,500). Arcot, which has a patio, is also a great choice, as is Surate (both Rs 3,250), while Cassimbazar is a great twin-bedded room. Service is well meaning but untrained. Most accommodations overlook or are linked to the romantically candlelit courtyard restaurant, Carte Blanche, where local “Creole” cuisine, a blend of South Indian and French, is served. Tip: Don’t miss the attached Neemrana gift shop; it has some wonderful, fair-priced souvenirs sourced from all over India—worth a visit even if you’re not overnighting here.

17 Rue Romain Rolland, French Quarter 605 001. 0413/234-3067. Fax 0413/222-7829. www.neemranahotels.com. Delhi reservations: Neemrana Hotels Private Ltd., A–58 Nizamuddin E., New Delhi 110 013. 011/2435-6145 or -8962. Fax 011/2435-1112. sales@neemranahotels.com. 14 units plus 2 in annex; avoid these. Rs 3,000–Rs 6,000 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, hair dryer on request, Wi-Fi (free).

Le Dupleix Owner Dilip Kapur (creator of the internationally renowned leather brand Hidesign) and his glam wife, Jacqueline, restored and modernized this 18th-century French colonial villa, turning it into an urbane, compact guesthouse, Pondi’s first true boutique hotel. There’s no doubt that it’s a looker, but parts (like the outdoor silk coverings) are looking a little faded during our last visit. Sadly staff here—oblivious to the competition gearing up—still tends to look down on the rest of the world. The best rooms are the two luxury penthouses (modern glass and teak boxes of which no. 15 is best; no. 14 is bigger), but I’d rather be at Dune Village for this money; of the deluxe rooms, no. 9 is best. Note that entry-level “superior” rooms (nos. 3 and 4) are really very tiny. Residents of Le Dupleix may use the pool at The Promenade. Food is hit and miss.

5 Rue De La Caserne, French Quarter 605 00. 0413/222-6999. Fax 0413/233-5278. www.sarovarhotels.com. ledupleix@sarovarhotels.com. 14 units. Rs 5,200 superior double; Rs 7,000 deluxe suite; Rs 8,500 luxury penthouse; Rs 9,200 luxury suite. Extra person Rs 1,500. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (Rs 3,100); board games; room service. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player on demand, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Maison Perumal This beautifully renovated heritage guesthouse, an oasis of calm located just off bustling Mission street, is in the Tamil side of town and feels therefore more anchored in real, living Pondi. Aside from this, the