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best reason to book here is the efficient and warm Dinu Ramakrishnan, who, along with his well-trained staff, ensures that this is the best-run guest house in Pondicherry. Service is attentive yet discreet; staff is clearly as delighted to be here as you will be. Rooms are elegant and cool; it’s a pity that the bathrooms (shower only) are so tiny but it’s a small price to pay for the sense of pampering (and shower pressure excellent). It’s an easy walk to the main shopping area, a short rickshaw ride (Rs 30) to the French restaurants on the other side of town. Not that you’ll need to dine elsewhere; food, like the rest of the services, is a very high standard. If rooms are still available at Rs 4,500, snap ’em up!

44 Perumal Koil St., Tamil Quarter 605 001. 0413/222-7519 or 09442127519. Fax 0413/222-7523. www.cghearth.com. maisonperumal@cghearth.com. 10 units. Rs 4,500–Rs 6,000 double. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (Rs 2,700); room service. In room: A/C, Wi-Fi (free).

The Promenade A small, purpose-built seaside hotel from the same team that brought us Le Dupleix, trendy Promenade doesn’t have quite the charm of its heritage sister, but book a sea-facing room and you’ll have the glistening waters of the Bay of Bengal to make up for it, as well as a small pool to cool off in. With a buzzing designer-style bar and new pizzeria, this is also the most happening after hours option in Pondi (which means it can be noisy for residents). Rooms are well designed, with huge leather headboards, raw-silk bed throws, teak-framed doorways and floors and Zen-like low-level beds and floating cupboards; the compact bathrooms are showing signs of age. Staff are not as snooty as Le Dupleix but service is slow, and waiting for your booking to be found or room to be ready can be unforgivably long.

23 Goubert Ave., French Quarter 605 001. 0413/222-7750. Fax 0413/222-7141. www.sarovarhotels.com. promenade@sarovarhotels.com. 35 units. Rs 5,700 deluxe non-sea-facing double; Rs 6,900 sea-facing double; Rs 10,500 suite. Extra bed Rs 1,000. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport transfers (Rs 3,100); board games; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player on demand, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Villa Helena Owned by Roselyne Guitry, a perfumer from Burgundy who has lived in Bangkok, Delhi, and now Pondicherry, this guesthouse started out as an annex in which Roselyne could keep her collection of antiques and traditional furniture. A natural decorator, she claims the place was “thrown together,” and operates her villa as a nonprofit hobby and an opportunity to meet people from around the world. The communal porch with gracious arches and pillars, where you can relax in planters’ chairs, is a plus, while the two deluxe rooms on the ground floor of the heritage building have lovely high ceilings. It’s all rather quirky and charming, and really good value, but don’t expect doting staff or any real amenities (or even staff that speaks English)—for that you’re better off at Hotel de l’Orient. Only four units, so book well in advance.

13 Lal Bahadur Shastri (Bussy St.), French Quarter 605 001. 0413/222-6789 or 0413/420-0377. Fax 0413/222-7087. villahelena@satyam.net.in. 4 units. Rs 2,200 standard double; Rs 2,800 deluxe. No credit cards. In room: A/C, TV (in deluxe).

Auroville

If you’d like to stay in Auroville (the only way to get to know this fascinating community, and worth it if you wish to meet with the crafters and artists living here), there are more than 30 guesthouses spread throughout the community, rated between A (basic, with shared bathroom) through to C (en-suite with fan or A/C) and D (studios or apartments or cottages with own kitchen or kitchenette)—for the full list along with informal photographs, take a look at www.aurovilleguesthouses.org. Depending on when you go, and the size of your accommodation, you’re looking at around Rs 400 to Rs 1,400 per person with the upper reaches charged during high season (usually July–Aug and Dec–Mar).

Depending on your interest,