India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [33]
5 Indian Cuisine
by Niloufer Venkatraman
Anthropologist, writer, and dedicated foodie
Indian cooking is one of the great cuisines of the world. Like the country itself, however, it varies greatly from region to region, and you’ll discover a great deal more to savor than the ubiquitous kormas and tikka masalas (known to the naive simply as “curry”) with which most Westerners are familiar. Not only does each Indian community and ethnic and regional group have a distinct cuisine, but there is a great deal of fusion within the country—subtle variations and combinations you’re only likely to pick up once you are familiar with the basics. A good way to sample a variety of dishes in a particular region is to order a thali (multicourse meal), in which an assortment of items is served. Basic staples that tend to be served with every meal throughout the subcontinent are rice, dal (lentils), and/or some form of roti (bread). The following is a brief summary of regional variations and general dining tips.
SOUTHERN STATES Food from the coastal areas of India almost always contains a generous quantity of coconut—besides using it in cooking, most Maharashtrian homes offer grated coconut as a garnish to every dish. Rice also dominates the food of southern India, as do their “breads,” which are more like pancakes and made of a rice (and/or dal) batter—these appams, idiapams, and dosas are found throughout the south. Dosas are in fact a South Indian “breakfast” favorite (consumed anytime), as are idlis and vadas, all of which have become part of mainstream cooking in many parts of India. Idli is a steamed rice and lentil dumpling, dosa a pancake (similar batter), and vada a deep-fried doughnut-shaped snack. All should be eaten fresh and hot with a coconut chutney and sambar, which is a specially seasoned dal (lentils), also eaten with steamed rice. In Tamil Nadu a large number of people are vegetarian, but in Kerala, Goa, and Mumbai, you must sample the fresh fish! Delicious kebabs and slow-cooked meals are what you’ll find in Hyderabadi cuisine; inspired by the courts of the nawabs (nobles), it’s similar to Mughlai cooking, but stronger in flavor.
NORTHERN STATES India’s great meat-eating tradition comes from the Mughals and Kashmiris, whose rogan josh and creamy korma dishes, along with kebabs and biryanis, have become the backbone of Indian restaurants overseas. The most popular tradition—tandoor (clay oven) cooking—is part of India’s Mughal gastronomic heritage. Tandoor dishes are effectively “barbecued” vegetables, paneer (Indian cheese), or meat that has been marinated and tenderized in spiced yogurt, cooked over coals, and then served either “dry” as a kebab or in a rich spiced gravy like the korma. Recently revived is the tradition of dum pukht, enjoyed by the erstwhile nawabs of Awadh in Lucknow and the surrounding area. All the ingredients are sealed and slow-cooked in a pot, around which coals are placed. Nothing escapes the sealed pot, preserving the flavors.
NORTHWEST (PUNJAB) SPECIALS Besides trying the various tandoor dishes, you should order parathas: A Punjabi specialty, this thick version of the traditional chapati is stuffed with potatoes, cabbage, radish, or a variety of other fillings. Be aware that many North Indians love their ghee (clarified butter); sensitive stomachs (or those watching their weight) should simply specify that they would prefer their paratha without ghee. A general note of caution when dining in North India: If the menu specifies a choice between oil and ghee as a cooking