India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [34]
EASTERN STATES Freshwater fish (such as hilsa, bekti, and rohu) take pride of place at the Bengali table, which incidentally considers itself to be the apotheosis of Indian cooking. In Bengal, mustard oil (which has its own powerful flavor) is the preferred cooking oil. Sweets are another Bengali gift to the world; these are made from milk that has been converted to paneer (Indian cheese) and that has names like rosogolla (or rasgulla) and sandesh.
SPICES Literally hundreds of spices (masalas) and spice combinations form the culinary backdrop to India, but a few are used so often that they are considered indispensable. Turmeric (haldi)—in its common form a yellow powder with a slightly bitter flavor—is the foremost, not least for its antiseptic properties. Mustard seeds are also very important, particularly in the south. Cumin seeds and coriander seeds and their powders are widely used in different forms—whether you powder, roast, or fry a spice, and how you do so, makes a big difference in determining the flavors of a dish. Chili powder is another common ingredient, available in umpteen different varieties and potencies. Then there are the vital “sweet” spices––cardamom (elaichi), clove (lavang), cinnamon (dalchini)—which, along with black pepper (kali miri), make up the key ingredients of the spice combination known as garam masala. Though tolerance to spicy food is extremely subjective, let your preference be known by asking whether the item is spicy-hot (tikha hai?) and indicating no-chili, medium-spicy, and so on. “Curry powder” as it is merchandised in the West is rarely found or used in India. “Curry” more or less defines the complex and very diverse combination of spices freshly ground together, often to create a spicy saucelike liquid that comes in varying degrees of pungency and varies in texture and consistency, from thin and smooth to thick and grainy, ideally accompanied by rice or breads.
STAPLES & ACCOMPANIMENTS All over the country, Indian food is served with either the staple of rice or bread, or both—the most popular being unleavened (pan-roasted) breads (called rotis); tandoor-baked breads; deep-fried breads (puris and bhaturas) or pancake-style ones. Chapatis, thin whole-wheat breads roasted in a flat iron pan (tava), are the most common bread eaten in Indian homes, though these are not as widely available as restaurant breads. The thicker version of chapatis are called parathas, which can be stuffed with an assortment of vegetables or even ground meat. Tandoor-roasted breads are made with a more refined flour and include naans, tandoori rotis, and the super-thin roomali (handkerchief) rotis. Tandoor breads turn a little leathery when cold and are best eaten fresh.
Dal, made of lentils (any of a huge variety) and seasoned with mustard, cumin, chilies, and/or other spices, is another Indian staple eaten throughout the country. Khichdi, a mixture of rice, lentils, and spices, is a great meal by itself and considered comfort food. In some parts it’s served with kadhi—a savory sour yogurt–based stew to which chickpea flour dumplings may be added. You’ll usually be served accompaniments in the form of onion and lime, chutneys, pickles, relishes, and a variety of yogurt-based salads called raita. Papads (roasted or fried lentil flour discs) are another favorite food accompaniment that arrives with your meal in a variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors.
MEAT A large number of Indians are vegetarian for religious reasons, with entire towns serving only vegetarian meals, but these are so delicious that meat lovers are unlikely to feel put out. Elsewhere, meat lovers should