India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [334]
400m (1,312 ft.) downriver from the main Virupaksha temple tank, Hampi. 94-4876-5213 or 08394/241-944. Meals under Rs 150. No credit cards. Daily 7am–9:30pm.
Waves FUSION Generous portions and plenty of cold beer (not freely found in Hampi) make this a popular if anonymous place to get a wholesome meal while you’re in the Hampi area. It’s on a covered terrace overlooking Hotel Malligi’s pool and is open all day—which makes it a convenient spot to grab breakfast before you set out for the ruins. Stick to the Indian dishes, and be prepared for an invasion of mosquitoes once the sun goes down.
Hotel Malligi, 10/90 J. N. Rd., P. B. no. 1, Hospet. 08394/228-101. Most main courses Rs 75–Rs 150. AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–midnight.
5 Side Trip to Northern Karnataka
If you’d like to get off the principal tourist beat and discover the Deccan’s architectural treasures in less-chartered territory, definitely set aside a few more days to explore the splendid remains of the erstwhile Chalukyan Empire and—tucked within one of the state’s northernmost corners—the Muslim city of Bijapur, filled with mosques, minarets, mausoleums, and palace ruins.
The easiest way to get to these sites is to rent a car and driver in Hospet (you can arrange one through Hotel Malligi; Rs 2,600 for a return trip (Hospet to Badami is about 4 hr.); drive to Badami, stopping at Aihole and Pattadakal either on your way in or out. It is quite possible to spend a long day traveling from Hospet or Hampi to all three Chalukya sites, including a stop at Mahakuteshwara and Mallikajuna temples en route. After that you can either proceed to Bijapur, or return to Hampi before nightfall. If you prefer something a little less hectic, however, overnight in Badami, and then continue your journey the following day. The best accommodations choice is Hotel Badami Court ( 08357/220-230 through -233). It’s located 2km (1 1⁄4 miles) from the town center and has a pool and decent air-conditioned rooms with TVs and bathtubs (ask for one of the garden-facing rooms, which are quieter) for around Rs 4,200 including breakfast.
BADAMI, AIHOLE & PATTADAKAL
Around 4 hours by car from Hospet, the remote, modest town of Badami was established around A.D. 543 when it became the capital of the Chalukyas, one of the most powerful of the Deccan dynasties. Today its most significant attraction is the complex of cave temples (Rs 220; daily sunrise–sunset) carved into the imposing horseshoe-shaped red-sandstone cliff that once formed a natural fortification at the southern end of the town. Enter the pillared interiors and you’ll discover elaborate symbolic and mystical carvings of the highest quality (not to mention a few scampering monkeys). It’s worth hiring the services of a guide (around Rs 200 for up to 3 hr.) to gain some understanding of the symbolism. Also worth exploring are the Bhutanatha temples, built over 4 centuries at a picturesque location at the edge of the Agastyatirtha water tank; and atop the hill, 7th-century Malegitti Shivalya Temple, unusually decorated with dwarfs, geese, and various geometric patterns. Time allowing, stop at the Archaeological Museum ( 08357/22-0157; Rs 2; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm) to see well-preserved sculpted panels depicting the life of Krishna, and the Lajja Gauri sculpture, an extraordinary fertility cult symbol. Less than 30km (19 miles) from Badami, en route to Aihole, is the small settlement of Pattadakal and its UNESCO World Heritage–listed temple complex ($10; daily sunrise–sunset), where Chalukyan temple architecture reached its zenith in the 7th and 8th centuries. Some, like Papanatha Temple built around A.D. 680, are in the northern Indo-Aryan style, while others, like the main Virupaksha Temple built 80 years later, are in the South Indian Dravidian architectural style, with tiered pyramidal rather than conical roofs. A dance festival is held at Pattadakal each January. (Note that if you’re pressed for