India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [335]
About 17km (11 miles) away, the riverbank village of Aihole is strewn with some 70 abandoned temples, built between A.D. 450 and 650 as architectural experiments by the early Chalukyan kings. Historians theorize that these obsessive rulers had a guild of architects, artists, and artisans working for them, and the variety of styles, including the Gupta (northern), incipient Dravidian, and elements of Buddhist architecture, reflect the various stages in the development of Chalukyan architecture. The chief attraction among these, fashioned along the lines of a Buddhist chaitya (prayer hall), is Durga Temple , with its magnificent circular colonnaded veranda studded with stunning sculptures and intricate carving. Contrast this with the Jain Meguti Temple situated atop a nearby hill—with an inscription putting its construction at A.D. 634, this was perhaps the last temple to be built in Aihole.
The interiors aren’t lighted, so you should carry a flashlight—the detailing is well worth studying. In some temples, you’ll discover images of fierce Chalukyan warriors in action, while elsewhere, amorous couples engage in a different sort of action. Admission to the main complex of temples is free; entrance to Durga Temple is Rs 90. Hours are daily sunrise to sunset.
BIJAPUR
The walled city of Bijapur, in the far north of Karnataka, is often referred to as the “Agra of the South” because of its profusion of Muslim architecture. First founded during the reign of the Chalukyan dynasty, between the 10th and 11th centuries, Bijapur passed into Muslim rule and later into the hands of the Bahamani kings. When these rulers fell into decline, the city was taken over by its governor, Yusuf Adil Khan, the founder of the Adil Shahi dynasty, who established rule over the Deccan during the 16th and 17th centuries, with Bijapur as their capital. Muslim mausoleums, mosques, palaces, pavilions, and burkha-clad women will remind you that this is a city unlike any other in Karnataka. Head to the very helpful local tourism office (Station Rd.; 08352/250-359; daily 10am–5:30pm) to hire a guide and get assistance with sightseeing. Monuments are open from sunrise to sunset and entry is free except where listed. Within the fortified Citadel in the city center lie the remains of royal structures, including Anand Mahal (Pleasure Palace), and Saat Manzil. Outside Saat Manzil is beautiful Jal Mandir, or water pavilion, now dry, so you can admire its carvings and porticos. Not far away (near the tourist office) is incomplete Bara Kaman (“12 Arches”), the roofless tomb of Ali Adil Shah II—a wonderful piece of architecture comprising 12 arches—surrounded by a garden.
Outside the Citadel’s walls, near the edge of the city, is Ibrahim Rouza , the gorgeously proportioned and heavily decorated mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah II and his wife, Taj Sultana (admission Rs 90; daily 6am–6pm; leave shoes outside). Ignore the garbage dump near the entrance and admire what is considered the most beautiful Muslim structure in the Deccan, featuring richly engraved walls and inscribed ornamental stone windows. Move on to Gol Gumbaz, the world’s second-largest dome (after St. Peter’s in Rome), atop the mausoleum of 17th-century sultan Muhammad Adil Shah (Mahatma Gandhi Rd.; admission Rs 220, video cameras Rs 2,200; leave shoes outside; daily 6am–6pm). Renowned for its remarkable engineering and stereophonic acoustics, the Gol Gumbaz can get noisy as visitors test the echo effect created by the massive dome—multiple distinct echoes are said to be produced for each sound uttered in the whispering gallery upstairs. Most visitors don’t bother to whisper, however, which may leave you with an experience akin to an auditory hallucination. As is the case with the Taj, try to arrive as soon as the gates open for the most atmospheric visit. It’s worth scaling the 115 steps to reach the dome’s terrace for the excellent views of the formal gardens and tombs.
Jami Masjid (free admission; daily 6am–6pm), close to Gol Gumbaz, is the city’s other major