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By Root 2424 0

AROUND The Delhi Metro (www.delhimetrorail.com) is increasingly useful, particularly for covering longer distance (like getting to Oberoi Maidens in the north), but as is the case elsewhere, subways also provide no sense of the city layout or passing sights. During peak hours, the tube can also get overcrowded and claustrophobic, and women traveling alone may get unwelcome attention. Ticketing agents are still not very clued in or helpful, either. However, it’s a very cheap and effective way of getting around, particularly if your lodgings are near a station, in which case you should definitely purchase a 1-day card (Rs70), or a 3-day (Rs200) if you’re staying longer.

There are three lines along which the Delhi Metro operates. To make it easier for you to understand which to opt for, we have clubbed places of interest, restaurants and hotels next to each metro option (Note: This refers only to those that lie along the metro routes).

Line 1: Dilshad Garden—Rithala (Rajghat, Akshardham)

Line 2: Jehangirpuri—Central Secretariat (Oberoi Maidens, Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation, Chor Bizarre, Karim, and Old Delhi sites such as Red Fort, India Gate)

Line 3: Indraprastha—Barakhamba Road—Dwarka (Shangri-La, The Imperial, The Park, Shanti Home, Hans Plaza, Hotel Palace Heights, Veda, Jantar Mantar, National Museum, Pragati Maidan)

The best way to get around while orienting yourself is still in Delhi’s black-and-yellow taxis or, for short distances, auto-rickshaws (run on eco-friendly CNG—compressed natural gas), but be sure to agree on the price upfront. For instance, traveling from Connaught Place to Red Fort shouldn’t cost more than Rs 50 by auto-rickshaw, Rs 150 by taxi. Delhi has the most complacent auto-rickshaw drivers in the country; if they don’t feel like going where you’re asking, they’ll simply refuse you service. Often, this is a ploy to press you for more money (official rates are Rs 10 for the first kilometer, and Rs 4.50 for every kilometer thereafter). If you feel you’re being overcharged, accuse the driver of cheating and threaten to report him (often simply pretending to dial the police on your mobile phone does the trick); to really complain, dial 011/2301-0101 or 011/4340-0400 (24 hr.). If the idea of having to haggle like this turns your stomach, Mega Cab ( 011/4141-4141; www.megacabs.com) is a radio taxi outfit that offers a convenient, marginally more expensive alternative, with a fleet of air-conditioned cars outfitted with working meters (Rs 15 per kilometer) available around-the-clock; their drivers usually keep you abreast of their arrival via cellphone. In case you cant get through, similar outfits like Delhi Cab ( 011/44-333-222) and the reliable Meru Cabs ( 011/4422-4422; www.merucabs.com) are also recommended, as are Easycabs (see Arrival above).

If you’d prefer to hire a car and driver for a half- or full day, arrange this through your hotel or, for better rates (and reliable drivers), through Sunrise Car Rental ( 011/2687-7434) or Aelpe Services ( 93-1374-1072).

If you plan to tour North India by car, setting off from Delhi, contact the excellent Khaver who will put you in touch with one of his travel experts at Tushita Travels, and you can create a custom tour within any budget ( 011-2573-0256 or 2573-3652; khaver@tushita-india.com; www.tushita-india.com). Also look into what Greaves Travels India ( 011/2437-3523 or -3528; www.greavesindia.com) can offer, another reputable operator with good drivers.

Note: It is inadvisable to travel anywhere during rush hour—you will almost certainly find yourself in a traffic jam in one of the most polluted cities in the world.

GUIDED TOURS You can book an air-conditioned bus tour of New Delhi (daily 9am–2pm) and/or Old Delhi (daily 2:15–5:15pm) through Delhi Tourism (see “Visitor Information,” above). Tours cost Rs 100 each, or Rs 195 for both; monument admission fees are extra. Also offered are long-distance tours that include trips to Agra, Jaipur, and Rishikesh, but we definitely recommend you opt for a private operator. Two of the most