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popular are Go Delhi Luxury Tours ( 98-9988-8207; www.godelhi.net), and TCI ( 011/2331-5834 or -5838; www.tcindia.com). Their tours are more personal, and the higher tariff (upward of Rs 1,000 per person, excluding monument entry) ensures that you get a decent English-speaking guide and an air-conditioned vehicle. Another reliable option which comes highly recommended is Le Passage to India ( 011/4165-3100; www.lepassagetoindia.com)—it would be best to check with all three for the best rate available. But if you’re tired of predictable presentations of history, we urge you to book a tour with the unusual Blowhorn Travel ( 0124/410-1328;www.blowhorntravel.com) who provide a series of innovative itineraries, keeping the idiosyncrasies of Indian culture in mind, and often studying it through the eyes of interesting personalities such as Lucy Peck, architectural historian and Khushwant Singh, son of a builder; truly a breath of fresh air to tourism gone stale, and catering to one to eight persons max. If Old Delhi (and really, this should be your first port of call) is your focus, we also recommend Tallis & Company 0124/400-4458;www.tallisandco.com) whose services and guides are extremely professional and thorough.

For an excellent introduction to Hinduism, as well as visits to some of the lesser-known sights in Old and New Delhi, book into Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation (see “Where to Stay,” later in this section)—the erudite proprietor gives one of the best tours we’ve had in India, and runs the best-value guesthouse in Delhi, too.

If you’d care to learn more about life on the streets of Delhi, and fancy a walking tour, contact Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk ( 011/2358-4164;www.salaambaalaktrust.com), although you’d better be prepared to have your heart broken. The daily walks through the city’s hodgepodge of streets and back alleys are led by street children who will share views on life that will possibly change your reality forever, but the initiative is well worth supporting as it makes a real difference to these children’s lives to be gainfully employed in this manner (see “The Plight of the Delhi’s Beggars” box). Alternatively INTACH (The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage; 71 Lodhi Estate; 011/2464-1304;www.intach.org) conducts 2-hour morning walks through Chandni Chowk on Saturdays.

Another company worth highlighting is Exotic Journeys—all you need to do is supply proprietor Raj Singh with your budget (as low as $100 per day, including car, driver, and accommodations—or higher, of course), number of days, and area of interest, and he will customize an excellent trip, kicking off with 2 days of sightseeing in Delhi. Contact him at exotic@del2.vsnl.net.in or exoticjourney@vsnl.com, or call 011/2612-4069.

Delhi

Airlines Most international airline offices are located on Janpath, Connaught Place, and Barakhamba Road. Jet Airways is located at Jetair House, 13 Community Centre, Yusuf Sarai; you can get in touch with them on their 24-hour reservation number: 011/3989-3333. Other useful airline numbers: Jetlite ( 011/2567-5879 or 1800-22-3020); Kingfisher Airlines ( 1600/180-0101); Spice Jet ( 1600/180-3333 or 98-7180-3333). Indian Airlines is still the best connected airline, though not our preferred choice; it’s located at Safdarjung Airport ( 011/2462-2220) and is open 24 hours; for general inquiries call 1800/180-1407 from your mobile. You could also contact the Airport ( 011/2566-1000 or 2560-2000).

Ambulance For an ambulance call either 102, or East West Rescue at 011/2469-9229, -0429, or -3738.

American Express The office is located at A-1 Hamilton House, A-Block Connaught Place ( 011/3988-0030).

Area Code The area code for Delhi is 011.

ATMs There are hundreds of ATMs in the city; ask your hotel which is the closest. Alternatively, head for Connaught Place, where (among others) HSBC, Standard Chartered, and Citibank ATMs offer 24-hour cash machines that take Visa and MasterCard.

Banks Hours are normally Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm, Saturday 10am to noon, though many banks are