India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [386]
Eastern Bank of Yamuna (30 min. from Taj). Admission Rs 110. Rs 10 discount with Taj ticket. Daily sunrise–sunset.
Sikandra (Akbar’s Tomb) Someone once described the rise and fall of the Mughal empire as rulers who started “as titans and finished as jewelers.” To this end, Akbar’s tomb is a less-elegant version of the bejeweled tombs of his great-granddaughter (or his daughter-in-law’s father), yet more ornate than that of his father Humayun (see “Delhi: The Top Attractions”). The perfect symmetry is typical of Persian architecture, and the scale is huge; the gateway alone, featuring more than 20 panels inlaid with intricate geometric patterning, will stop you in your tracks. Geometric patterning in fact dominates, with relatively few floral designs, as befits the last “titan” ruler. It’s not surprising to hear that the tomb is believed to have been designed by Akbar; the detailing reflects the altogether more restrained lifestyle and masculine personality of this great ruler.
8km (5 miles) from Agra on NH 2. 0562/264-1230. Admission Rs 110. Rs 10 discount with Taj ticket. Rs 25 video. Daily sunrise–sunset.
WHERE TO STAY
Given that it is one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the world, Agra’s accommodations can be disappointing, no doubt a case of resting on the Taj’s laurels. The big exception is Amarvilās, which—even if it means scrimping elsewhere—is worth every cent, not least for its proximity to the Taj and the matchless views.
Within the moderate price category, all located south and southwest (known as the Cantonment) of the Taj, there is incredible price parity; of these only the Trident offers good value. The best budget option, conveniently located within Tajganj (where the Taj is located), is the Hotel Sheela, reviewed below. (Note: Again we urge you to stay at one of the better properties; a bad hotel experience can really spoil the whole romanticism attached to the Taj. Check online for daily price variations, particularly for the Gateway and Trident hotels: You can sometimes get an ultralow bargain rate.).
Very Expensive
Amarvilās It’s one of the most talked-about hotels in the world and your experience visiting the Taj Mahal and Agra will be enhanced by a thoroughly worthwhile splurge at this extraordinary property. The lobby, bar, and lounge all offer the same surreal views of the Taj, but even those public spaces that don’t offer a monument view are lovely, with large reflecting pools, colonnaded courts, terraced lawns, and pillowed pavilions. By day some of the exteriors look a little bland and in need of the detailing featured in the interior, but at night it’s a pure Arabian Nights fantasy, when burning braziers provide a wonderful contrast to the fountains and trickling streams. The rooms are compact but extremely luxurious, showcasing the best-quality Indian craftsmanship available but with every modern amenity. The only significant choice you need make is whether or not to pay extra for a balcony (recommended!). While the hotel scores high points for its understated opulence, it’s the silky smooth service that accompanies your encounter with the Taj that really makes a difference; be sure to make use of the courtesy golf cart rides to just within striking distance of the monument’s East Gate.
Taj East Gate Rd., Taj Nagari Scheme, Agra 282 001. 0562/223-1515. Fax 0562/223-1516. www.oberoihotels.com. 102 units. Rs 30,500–Rs 40,000 premiere double; Rs 36,000–Rs 45,5000 premiere double with balcony; Rs 70,000–Rs 224,000 suite. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; bar; airport transfer (Rs 1,268); cultural performances (Oct–Mar); doctor-on-call; drop-off at Taj; fitness center; Internet (Rs 220/hr., Rs 881/day); outdoor heated pool; room service; Banyan Tree spa. In room: A/C, TV, personal butler, DVD, hair dryer, minibar, MP-3 docking station (on request), Wi-Fi (Rs 220/hr., Rs 881/day).
Room with a View
It’s been enjoyed by a global who’s who: from Salman Rushdie to William Dalrymple, Will