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Smith to Meg Ryan, not to mention a host of world leaders but no matter what anyone tells you, there’s little to beat the satisfaction of enjoying all-day views of the Taj from your bedroom at the Amarvilās hotel —just 600m (1,968 ft.) away. Every room has a beautiful view. You can literally sip a cappuccino in your king-size bed at dawn, watching the subtle color variations the monument undergoes as the sun rises; or you can order a cocktail on your private balcony at sunset, admiring the ethereal marble silhouette as staff light the burners that line the hotel’s grand stepped terraces leading down to the central pool. The in-house spa also has views of the Taj—lying there, gazing at the dreamlike monument, you might just have to ask the masseuse to pinch you.

Expensive

ITC Mughal Before Amarvilās, this was billed the best lodging in town, winning awards for its design (supposedly emulating a Mughal palace), but it’s always struck us as rather brash and very, very busy, with a distinct lack in service-to-price ratio. However, the renovations and refurbishing that took place during 2008 has given the ITC a new lease, and it has now proudly taken its place as the second most popular lodging option in Agra, though we think the Trident offers better value. A major draw are the facilities for children, with nannies, an amusement park and tons of games to keep them occupied, so you can spend time soaking in some exotic therapy at the spa. Kaya Kalp, winning accolades galore including the prestigious Tatler’s Best City Spa in 2008, reinforces what the Mughals introduced to India—space, green, and water—plenty of which is to be found in its sprawling 9,197 sq. m (99,000 sq. ft.) area. The use of the pomegranate as a constant motif comes courtesy the Mughal King Babar, who allegedly introduced it to India and not surprisingly, among its long list of therapies, the fruit features as an exotic and ultimate treatment. And yes, only in-house guests get to enjoy it.

194 Fatehabad Rd., Taj Ganj, Agra 282 001. 0562/402-1700. Fax 0562/233-1730. www.luxurycollection.com/itcmughal. 269 units. Rs 16,000 Chamber of Emperors double, Rs 19,000 Mughal Chamber double, Rs 30,000 Deluxe Suite, Rs 35,000 Deluxe Suite (Taj facing); Rs 45,000 luxury suite; Rs 80,000 presidential suite. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 550); astrologer; babysitting; badminton; bank; billiards; boating; croquet; cultural performances; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; miniature golf; health club w/sauna; internet (Rs 600/hr.); jogging track; children’s amusement park; outdoor pool; room service; spa; 2 tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, minibar; MP-3 docking station (only in suites), Wi-Fi (Rs 600/hr.).

Jaypee Palace Hotel This huge hotel and convention center has a host of facilities; again this will suit those traveling with kids: youngsters can lose themselves at Leisure Mall, which offers a bowling alley and virtual reality games (and other kinds of entertainment you probably never came to India for!). Despite being at the edge of town it tends to get very busy, which can prove a real nuisance. Nevertheless, the red-sandstone buildings (more reminiscent of a modern library than a palace) are wonderfully set on 10-hectare (25-acre) grounds with well-tended gardens, lovely walkways, fountains, and pergolas—you can even take a camel ride through the grounds. Unfortunately, the hotel’s size and the rather brusque staff can make your stay here memorable for the wrong reasons: One revamped wing has given rise to so-called Palace Rooms: Escape to these spacious rooms with their semiprivate terraces to avoid the crowds; along with various in-room freebies, Palace Rooms also come with a free massage.

Fatehabad Rd., Agra 282 003. 0562/233-0800. Fax 0562/233-0850. www.jaypeehotels.com. 350 units. $250–$270 double; $315 palace room; $400–$2,600 suite. $38 extra bed. Taxes extra. Ask about discounts. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; tea lounge, patisserie; disco; airport transfers (Rs 440); aerobics; babysitting;