India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [396]
Kashi Vishwanath Temple Of the more than 2,000 temples in Varanasi, the most important is Kashi Vishwanath Temple, or “Golden Temple,” dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of the city. Because of repeated destruction by the invading sultans and later by Aurangzeb, the current Vishwanath is a relatively modern building: It was built in 1777 by the Maharani of Indore, and the shikhara (spire) and ceilings were plated with 820 kilograms (1,808 lb.) of gold, a gift from Maharaja Ranjit Singh, in 1839. Five major aartis are held daily, but the temple is always abuzz with worshipers. Sadly, non-Hindus may not enter, but by taking a stroll through the Vishwanath Galli (pronounced Gul-ley, meaning lane) that runs the length of it, you can get a glimpse of the interior, which exudes pungent smells and constant noise. For a small donation, you can climb to one of the second floors or rooftops of the shops that line the lane and get a good view. Note that adjacent is Gyanvapi Mosque, built by Aurangzeb on a Hindu temple site and heavily guarded to ensure that no trouble erupts. Ironically, this is also the starting point for many pilgrims on their quest to visit all the tirthas in a ritual journey, accompanied by a priest who recites the sankalpa, or “declaration of intent.” Nearby is Annapurna Temple, dedicated to Shakti.
Vishwanath Galli. Temple is closed to non-Hindus; compound is accessible. No cameras or cellphones allowed within the Galli and temple compound.
A Side Trip to Sarnath
After gaining enlightenment, Sarnath is where Buddha gave his first sermon some 2,500 years ago, and continued to return with followers. For many centuries after this, it was renowned as a Buddhist center of learning, housing some 3,000 monks, but successive Muslim invasions and later lootings destroyed the monasteries and much of the art. Today it still attracts many pilgrims, but—unless you’re very familiar with Buddha’s personal history or are an archaeologist—the site itself is nowhere near as inspiring as his teachings, and you’re likely to experience it all as nothing more than a boring pile of bricks. The most impressive sight is Dhamekh Stupa, if only for its sheer age. Built around A.D. 500, with a massive girth, it still towers 31m (102 ft.) into the air and is said to mark the very spot where Buddha revealed his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana. The ruins of Dharmarajika Stupa lie immediately north of the entrance. Beyond is the Ashokan Pillar—the stupa is said to have been one of 28 built by Ashoka, the 3rd century B.C. Mauryan king and bloodthirsty warrior who was to become one of the most passionate converts to Buddhism. Beyond these are the ruins of monasteries. Across the road from the entrance to the main site is Sarnath Archaeological Museum, where you can view the four-headed lion that once topped the Ashoka Pillar; created in the 3rd century B.C., it’s made from sandstone, polished to look like marble. The lion capital, with the wheel beneath representing Buddha’s “wheel of dharma,” is today a national emblem for India, found on all currency notes and official government documents. East of the Dhamek Stupa is Mulagandha Kuti (main temple), which houses an image of Buddha (ironically enough, against his wishes, images of Buddha abounded after his death). The walls contain frescoes pertaining to his life history—a good crash course for the novice if accompanied by a guide. You can also visit the peaceful Tibetan Buddhist Monastery, a lovely, bright space with display cases filled with hundreds of miniature Buddhas.
Sarnath is 10km (6 1⁄4 miles) north of Varanasi. Admission Rs 100. Daily 7am–6:30pm. Museum Rs 2; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm; cameras not allowed (lockers provided). Mulagandha Kuti 4–11:30am and 1:30–8pm. Daily chanting Rs 5 for use of still camera, Rs 25 video; Nov–Feb 6pm, Mar–May 6:30pm, June–Oct 7pm. Tibetan Buddhist Monastery free admission; 5am–noon and 2–6:30pm.
WHERE TO STAY
In a general sense, you have two options: You can stay in one of the waterfront lodgings, most of which