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(with the exception of the two reviewed below) are very basic; or you can spend the night in the relative peace and comfort of the Cantonment area, where the most “luxurious” options are. Still, with the exception of our three choice picks, below, the Cantonment hotels tend to look very frayed, if not downright decaying. And the downside of staying in the Cantonment is that you feel very cut off from the real Varanasi, and require an earlier morning wake-up call to get to the ghats; for the sunset aarti, when the streets are often jammed, it may take 30 minutes (and a blood-curdling taxi or rickshaw ride) to get there, and you’ll walk the last part. These issues can be solved by staying in a hotel on the Ganges, but this also means you have no chance of unwinding at a pool, eating meat, or drinking alcohol—still, if you manage to bag a river-facing room, you will have the delight of a waterfront view, with the surreal experience of Varanasi on your doorstep. Note: Staying in one of the budget hotels away from the ghats is inadvisable unless you’re used to budget traveling; many have no windows, and the noise is incessant.

Cantonment

The Gateway Hotel Ganges Varanasi The Gateway is located within an ugly 1970s monolith, but rooms have been renovated over the past few years to create a more contemporary ambience. Executive rooms are now stylishly furnished with comfy divans and plasma TVs, but the best rooms are the lovely, cozy suites (book no. 527, which occupies a top corner and is very spacious and gracious, with a huge bathroom). What distinguishes this old five-star stalwart are service and the vast array of amenities, as well as a real passion for the region; the hotel hires the best guides in the city, shopping tips are excellent, and the travel desk will arrange tours as far afield as Bodhgaya. It also has huge, sprawling grounds, a great pool, and two of the best restaurants in town (this does not mean that the meal will be the best you have in India, however).

Nadesar Palace, Varanasi 221 002. 0542/250-3001 through -3019. Fax 0542/250-1343. www.tajhotels.com. 130 units. Rs 8,500 standard double; Rs 9,500 executive double; Rs 11,500 executive suite; Rs 12,500 deluxe suite. Rs 1,200 extra bed. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 745); astrologer; badminton; doctor-on-call; golf (at Nadesar Palace); gym; outdoor pool; room service; spa (at Nadesar Palace); table tennis; tennis; yoga. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/full day).

The Nadesar Palace This 175-year old property, once the city residence of the Maharaja Singh and today a Taj-operated hotel, and our top hotel choice by far in the Cantonment, blends the luxury of two different eras: original 19th-century architectural detailing is augmented with Victorian claw-foot bathtubs and a mix of authentic and reproduction antiques, yet offers all the modern conveniences you’d expect from a hotel that opened in 2009. Rooms come dressed in muted colors, with four-poster beds draped in silks and hand-woven carpets; plenty of common areas to lounge in both upstairs and down in the veranda by the pool, which although tiny, is in keeping with the general facade. The grounds are as yet undeveloped (golf course in the making) but it’s worth taking a ride on the Maharaja’s 220-year old buggy, which clip-clops its way through the 16 hectares (40 acres), the proud coachman pointing to a myriad of trees planted decades ago.

Nadesar Palace Grounds, Varanasi 221 002. 0542/250-3001 through -3019. Fax 0542/250-1406. www.tajhotels.com. 10 units. Rs 20,000 palace rooms; Rs 30,000 historical suites; Rs 36,000 royal suites; Rs 1,250 extra bed; check website for best available rates. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 745); buggy ride; doctor-on-call; golf; gym; outdoor pool; room service; spa; outdoor tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/day).

Radisson Hotel Varanasi The most popular choice in Varanasi’s cantonment offers ultracontemporary accommodations, reliable service, and the usual five-star