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(stick to Indian food, which is consistently good). The atmosphere is great thanks to the hands-on attitude of host Rashmi and her family, and offers generous amentias like an efficient, free railway pick up (there’s a charge however for drop off) and free Internet (don’t opt for the massage, though; the room’s a tad claustrophobic). For the best views (and it’s definitely worth booking a river-facing view) try to book rooms on one of the top floors (third to fifth floor), though be warned, there is no elevator. Again, bathrooms are tiny.

D 16/28 A, Manmandir Ghat. 0542/2402778.www.palaceonriver.com. 16 units (8 with showers, 8 with bathtubs). Rs 2,500 standard, Rs 6,000 river-facing deluxe. Taxes extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 750); doctor-on-call. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (only in deluxe rooms), heater (in winters), Wi-Fi (complimentary).

WHERE TO DINE

Varanasi is not known for its culinary finesse as far as the westerner’s palate goes but Indians feel quite the contrary and eating here is almost as ritualistic as dipping oneself in the Ganga. Since many of these eats are catered essentially by street vendors or hole-in-the-wall establishments, we choose not to make any specific suggestions, keeping in mind the average Indian’s strong immunity system. However, for the bold and adventurous, throw aside all caution and follow the crowds: in the mornings, you’ll find the populace indulging enthusiastically (almost as if it’s their first even though they do this on a daily basis) in what is called alu kachori (fried puff pastry or bread served with spicy potato curry). In the thick of the afternoon when all you want to do is faint, down a massive glass of badaam thandai—almond-flavored sweet milk. In the evening ask your hotel for guidance to the closest and best chaat shop where you can have just about anything on the menu—try the curd-based items as they mitigate the accompanying fiery chilies to some extent. After this, you can make a dash for any confectioner’s shop which sells rabari—thickened sweet milk which you eat with a spoon instead of gulping it. And although you need to be bolder and more adventurous than normal for the next one, it is a trademark of a visit to Varanasi—the famous Banarasi paan (a leaf of a particular plant with a whole assortment of betel nuts and various other ingredients made in less than 20 sec.; insist they put no tobacco in it). On the safer side of the culinary fence, Varanasi’s best and smartest restaurant is Varuna ( 0542/250-3001; only dinner), in the Taj Ganges hotel, which features a vast menu of Indian specialties (illustrated with chilies to indicate those that are superstrength), a comfortable air-conditioned interior, and helpful service. For the works, served on a traditional Varanasi silver platter, order the Satvik Thali (Rs 500). This is very much a hotel restaurant, and you may not be in the Cantonment area at lunchtime. The Taj’s Chowk restaurant does dinner buffet spreads that are popular with foreign tour groups, and at Rs 575, the buffets offer very good value.For a hygienic meal while exploring the Old City, your options are limited. Varanasi caters rather haphazardly to the budget Western traveler, with a split focus on affordability and cleanliness, presumably implied by the involvement of foreign management. If you want authentic Indian food, we recommend calling ahead to find out about the possibility of a meal at either Dolphin restaurant at Rashmi Guest House or Ganges View Guesthouse (see above) or head for the old stalwart Keshari (reviewed below). There’s the rather iconic Bread of Life Bakery & Restaurant (B3/322 Shivala), established by James and Monika Hetherington, an American interior designer and a German flight attendant. The decor is very sterile (white-vinyl-top tables), and staff borders on comatose, but you can enjoy wholesome Western dishes and freshly baked breads and muffins knowing that you are making a positive contribution—all profits from the bakery and the silk shop above (which, incidentally, has a good selection