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of scarves and linen made by local weavers) go to local charities, including the Mother Teresa Hospice. Daily specials include steaming-hot vegetable moussaka, chickpea goulash, ratatouille, and warm Portuguese salad. Hot dishes take awhile to arrive, so you can be certain that everything is freshly prepared and, in a city known for food-related mishaps, that hygiene is a priority Sadly, there is talk of shutting, but nothing had been decided at press time. Another favorite is the Brown Bread Bakery, conveniently located on Dashaswamedh Ghat (D5/17, Tripura Bhairavi; 93-3546-5176 or 0542/240-3566). It’s got a mouthwatering selection of breads, rolls, and pastries, as well as pizzas and a variety of Tibetan fare—this could save the day if you haven’t taken to the city’s traditional cuisine. You could also consider laid-back Lotus Lounge (D14/27, Mansarowar Ghat; 98-3856-7717), an open-air eatery on the ghats, benefiting from a bird’s-eye view of the Ganges. Perfect for all-day chilling (lounge on floor cushions or sit at tables set with candles at night), the space is lorded over by a serene-looking Buddha mural and operated by an Indo-German couple, Martina and Atul, who vary the menu seasonally. Count on fresh ingredients and wide-ranging international choices: gazpacho (made with ginger), red Thai curry, impressive ravioli, and wonderful Tibetan-style momos (dumplings). While meat is generally an absolute no-no anywhere near the river, here you can even order fresh chicken. It’s open September through mid-May.

The Keshari Restaurant INDIAN A stern-looking, bespectacled clerk sits counting cash at the entrance of this busy, cramped restaurant (ideal if you’re exploring the Old City) hidden away down a near-impossible-to-find back street (to get here, head down the lane opposite the La-Ra Hotel). Inside, wall-mounted fans and ancient cooling systems blast away while waiters dash between tables packed with locals, pilgrims, and bewildered foreigners. There’s a huge selection of Indian, Chinese, and other dishes, all vegetarian, but we recommend you stick to the Indian fare, which includes an admirable assortment of curries, biryanis, pulao, and traditional breads—you could also opt for a thaali, which comes with an assortment of dishes. It also contains a list of commandments for diners that includes AVOIDING COMBING OF HAIR and NOT WASHING HANDS IN UTENSILS! Lassis are all fantastic. It may not be particularly relaxing, but this is certainly a place to mingle with real Indians.

D14/8 Teri Neem, Godaulia (Off Dasashwamedh Rd., near Godaulia crossing). 0542/240-1472. Main courses Rs 35–Rs 120; thalis Rs 55–Rs 125. No credit cards. Daily 9am–10:30pm.

SHOPPING

Varanasi is famous above all for its silk—every Indian bride wants a Benarasi silk sari in her trousseau, and around 3,000 kilograms (6,614 lb.) of silk are consumed by the weaving units daily. Wander through the Old City, or ask at your hotel or the tourist office for recommended wholesalers. Resham India ( 0542/243-1673), comes highly recommended as does Taj Estate ( 0542/245-2228). Or head for Ushnak Mal Mool Chand ( 0542/227-6253), a recommended sari shop in Chowk. Another recommended stop is the contemporary, friendly Open Hand Shop and Café (B1/128-3, Dumraun Bagh Colony, Assi; 0542/236-9751;www.openhandonline.com)—it provides a respite from the cloying traditionality of the city, allowing you to browse through its varied selection of textiles, furnishings and accessories over some pretty decent coffee.

For an excellent selection of Indian fiction and books on philosophy and religion, not to mention good CDs, visit Kashi Annapurna Book House (B1/185B, Main Assi Ghat; 0542/231-5992), a small enterprise near Ganges View Guesthouse.

Death as Road to Salvation?

Of all the sadhus (ascetics) and holy men you will see in Varanasi, perhaps the hardest to understand without brutal judgment are the Aghori sect and their rituals. You may spot the occasional Aghori at a shamshan ghat (cremation ground) in Varanasi, usually with matted hair and no clothing, or just covered