India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [414]
WHEN TO GO The park opens by October, but the best time to visit would be February to April. After that the heat intensifies dramatically and although the animals may be forced to search for water and thus expose themselves, whether visitors can bear with the blazing sun is another matter.
ORGANIZING YOUR SAFARI
There is very little that differs in the system that is followed by the other Parks in Madhya Pradesh—refer to our section on Bandhavgarh for a detailed account of how it works. Once again, we must warn our readers that while the sighting of a tiger is extraordinary, you may feel squeamish, especially when tourist numbers are high, at the manner in which this magnificent animal is literally cornered. While authorities claim that the tiger is free to make its own path and remain sequestered from our ravenous gaze, in truth, given its tendency to mark its territory and use the same trails, it has little option but to run up against eager tourists twice a day. Perhaps if you were to clearly state the level to which you are willing to go, your naturalist would conduct the safari accordingly.
Park entrance is at Mukki or Kanha. Park fees: Rs 2,000 admission; Rs 600 elephant ride per person for 3–5 min. Daily 6:15–10am and 3–6pm; park closed July 1–Oct 15.
WHERE TO STAY
Kanha has some fairly upmarket and lovely accommodation choices in hand, with the latest Taj and &Beyond masterpiece—Banjaar Tola (reviewed below) taking first prize. Singinawa ( 98-1026-5781 or 0124/406-8852; www.singinawa.in; Rs 29,820 double) was a tad too formal for us, but that was to be expected given the pedigreed background that it revels in, a little too obsessively perhaps. Owned by Latika and Nanda Rana, part of the Nepal royal family and both of whom have studied tigers extensively, in partnership with Mike and Claire Gallety, it consists of 12 air-conditioned cottages and a massive central stone lodge where guests discuss their sightings over cocktails and dine on the massive wooden table, surrounded by fabulous photographs taken by Nanda. Food is catered to suit the first-timers palate but a little too dull and mismatched for those who crave Indian spices. Much of the 23 hectares (57 acres) has been left untouched—nice to explore, with a lovely pool to soak in after. Their vehicles are decidedly the most comfortable and, with eager naturalists as part of their team, you will undoubtedly have a wonderful wildlife experience. But really, our money’s on Banjaar Tola. If you’d rather opt for something more informal and relaxed (not to mention less exorbitant), we recommend Shergarh (reviewed below). (PS: Keep a lookout for Kanha Earth Lodge, scheduled to open at the end of 2009 (www.kanhaearthlodge.com)—owned by the same group that operates Kings Lodge and Ken River Lodge, it’s sure to be a good option.
Tip: If you decide to go by rail from Kanha via Umaria on your way to Bandhavgarh, then you will need to leave Kanha the evening before and stay overnight at Jabalpur in order to catch the early morning train. The only decent en route option is the Narmada Jacksons ( 0761/400-1122; www.jacksons-hotel.com; doubles from Rs 2,500) but don’t expect much—this is basic accommodation, just booked to facilitate your onward journey.
Banjaar Tola We wish there were more stars to give this absolutely wonderful creation, another of the Taj-safari properties, this one spectacularly located on the River Banjaar. The two camps, each with just nine tents, lie along the riverside, across which are the woods; the massive half-moon shaped rooms lead out through large glass doors onto an outdoor deck with the most terrific view in Kanha (nos. 6–8 don’t have views of the river). Decor is gorgeous but it is the bathrooms that have hydrohedonists in heaven—almost the same size as the room, and with equally gorgeous views. Food is intelligently planned with light and healthy lunches of salads to