India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [415]
Shergarh Also tented (although comparative to Banjaar Tola, very rustic), the Shergarh tents offer comfortable and spacious en-suite tents, and air-coolers in summers and angithis (lit coal) in winters. Each of the six units comes with a veranda (ask for the tent next to the pond) where you can soak in the amazingly unpolluted night sky. Electricity may be erratic but there is a backup generator as well as oil lanterns—immediately providing a more romantic ambience. The intimate living room/lobby doubles as a dining room; lunches can be served outdoors under a gorgeous mango tree. If the rigorous routine of morning and evening safaris is too exhausting, owners Jehan and Katie can organize cycling to the river, guided walks to a hilltop where you can take in a beautiful sunset while sipping cocktails, or visits to the local market. The jeeps used for the safari are not as comfortable as at the other lodges, but the price makes up for this.
Village Bahmni, Post Kareli, Tehsil Baihar, District Balaghat 481 111. 07637/22-6215 or 90-9818-7346. www.shergarh.com. enquiries@shergarh.com. 6 units. Rs 10,500 per person on jungle plan. No credit cards, traveler’s checks and cash only; wire transfers in advance. Amenities: Dining room and various dining areas; bar; airport transfer (Rs 6,800); cycling, Internet (complimentary); library; market trips, jeep safaris; guided walks. In room: Air-coolers in summer, coal-fire in winter, flashlight.
7 Orchha
440km (273 miles) SE of Delhi; 238km (148 miles) S of Agra; 120km (74 miles) SE of Gwalior
Located on a rocky island on the Betwa River, the deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap is one of India’s most fabulous Mughal heritage sites, yet Orchha (literally “hidden place”) is mercifully free of development, making this a wonderfully relaxing stop. Founded in 1531, it was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Today the weathered temples, palaces, and cenotaphs are the royal quarters of emerald parakeets and black-faced langurs, while traditional whitewashed, flat-roofed structures house the laid-back villagers. Besides the palace complex, three beautiful temples are worth seeking out, as well as 14 graceful chhatris (cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers, built upstream along the riverbank. Most of these sights can be covered in a day excursion on the way to Khajuraho, but to get the most out of this surreally tranquil haven, spend at least 1 night here.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION The MPSTDC Sheesh Mahal ( 07680/25-2624) acts as an informal tourism office (see “Where to Stay,” below). They will arrange day trips and transfers.
GETTING THERE The best way to get to Orchha is to catch a train to Jhansi, where trains from Delhi, Mumbai, or Chennai pull in, carrying visitors on their way to Khajuraho (see “Khajuraho: Getting There & Away,” earlier in this chapter). You can catch an auto-rickshaw from Jhansi to Orchha (20km/12 miles) for about Rs 300. Alternatively, with time on your hands, you can hire a car and driver and travel by road from Agra, overnighting at Gwalior (see “The Gems of Gwalior,” below).
EXPLORING ORCHHA’S FORGOTTEN MONUMENTS
The monuments of Orchha are fairly spread out, but close enough to be explored