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By Root 2035 0

behind which the ladies of the palace could view the city without being seen. You can walk along the corridors that line the windows, which are mostly one room thick, but the building’s principal attraction is the facade, which is best viewed in the early morning from the street level (entrance from Tripolia Bazaar, Police HQ lane). Also within the city complex, opposite Chandra Mahal, is Govindji Temple (daily 5–11am and 6–8pm): The family temple of the Maharajas of Jaipiur and the most famous in the city it is dedicated to Lord Krishna, and installed here so that Jai Singh II could see his favorite deity from the Chandra Mahal. The Krishna image was brought here from Brindavan in the late 17th century; devotees are allowed only a glimpse of it seven times a day. You will notice that the temple is open sided and is more like a Mughal audience hall; the reason being that it was originally a palace pavilion but after Krishna appeared to Jai Singh in a dream here he honored the deity by converting it into a temple.

In the new part of the city lies Ram Niwas Bagh, the city garden, which houses a depressing zoo and aviary. At the heart of the garden lies the beautifully proportioned Albert Hall, which houses the Central Museum ( 0141/257-0099; Rs 35; daily 10am–4:30pm; cameras not allowed inside although from the top you’ll pay another Rs 40). Designed by the prolific architect and past master of the hybrid Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, Swinton Jacob, this is of principal interest from an architectural point of view, and a slow circular turn around the building in a car will suffice for many. That’s not to say that the exhibits are devoid of interest—the eclectic collection covers a wide range from musical instruments to bottled organs, and the tiny terra-cotta figures demonstrating myriad yoga positions are worth a look. A short drive due south lies the even stranger Museum of Indology ( 0141/260-7455; Rs 40, Rs 100 camera, Rs 500 video; Sat–Thurs 9:30am–4:30pm), where an incredible selection of objects—all collected in one lifetime by the writer Acharya Ram Charan Sharma “Vyakul”—has been crammed into countless dusty display cases in every nook and cranny of his house. Like a journey into the mind and thought processes of the collector himself, the collection is as eclectic as they come, including a map of India painted on a grain of rice, misprinted rupees, a 180-million-year-old fossil, a letter written by Jai Singh, and the Gayatri Mantra written on a single strand of hair. It’s a great shame more money is not available to edit and present this collection professionally.

On M.I. Road, near the Panch Batti intersection (where you’ll see a statue of Sawai Jai Singh II) is Raj Mandir ( 0141/237-9372 or 0141/236-4438)—one of the most over-the-top and famous cinemas in the country. This is the place to watch a Bollywood blockbuster, though you will need to book tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line for hours. If the film is a new release, book a day in advance (daily 10am–2pm and 3–6pm). If you don’t want to sit through 3 hours of Hindi melodrama, request that the doorman let you in for a sneak peek; he may oblige for a small tip if the hall isn’t packed. Or arrive a few hours before the film, purchase your ticket, and kill time over a coffee and a pastry across the street at Barista, while you browse books on Rajasthani art and architecture, magazines, and bestsellers.

CITY ESCAPES If the populous nature and heavy traffic of Jaipur gets to be too much, take a trip to Amber Fort (see below), which can be covered in a few hours. Do bear in mind, however, that even here the crush of people can be exhausting, particularly over weekends; try to get here as soon as it opens or buy a ticket just before the ticket office closes which still gives you ample time, and space, to walk around in the softer light. Time allowing, you may want to include a visit to Jaigarh Fort (Rs 55 City Palace entry ticket includes Jaigarh; daily 9am–4:30pm), whose walls snake high above Amber, creating a crenelated horizon. Built for defense