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purposes by Sawai Jai Singh II, it has a number of buildings, gardens, and reservoirs as well as the world’s largest cannon on wheels (the massive Jaivana cannon needed 100kg of powder to fire a shot) and the only surviving medieval cannon foundry, but its principal attraction is the panoramic view across Amber. You can walk to Jaigarh from Amber, a steep 20-minute climb. The path begins just below the palace entrance and branches off the windy road used by the mahouts and their two tonners. You’ll arrive at the Awani Gate, and inside on your left is the museum. You can also drive (Rs 450 return from Amber village); take the same road to get to Nahargarh, arriving at the entrance near the Jaivana cannon.

On the way to Amber you’ll see the turnoff for the imposing hilltop fort of Nahargarh (see “Sunset over Jaipur,” above). Also known as Tiger Fort, Nahargarh is the first of the three forts built by Maharaja Jai Sawai Singh of Jaipur in 1734 and commands great views over the city. Just below it is Gaitor (free admission, Rs 10 camera, Rs 20 video), a walled garden that houses the marble chhatris—erected over cremation platforms—of the Kachchwaha rulers. Needless to say, the most impressive one belongs to Jai Singh II. Farther along Amber Road you will see Jal Mahal, a lake palace originally built by Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799, who spent much of his childhood at Udaipur’s Lake Palace. Sadly, Man Sagar Lake is dry from the protracted drought, stripping it of much of its romance. If it’s romance you’re after, take a leisurely drive to Samode Palace (see “Where to Stay,” below; lunch Rs 500) where, after touring Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-Am, you can enjoy tea in the lovely courtyard, where bold sparrows will attempt to nibble your cookies. Or enjoy a dip and a drink on their spectacular new roof terrace infinity pool, and stay for dinner in their brand-new Indian fusion restaurant.

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Amer (or Amber) Fort Amber was the capital of the Kachchawahs from 1037 to 1727, when Sawai Jai Singh II moved the capital to Jaipur. Technically more a palace than a fort, it is said to have gotten its name from the many inlaid jewels and gemstones in the decoration of the inner sanctums of the fort. The approach is through a narrow pass, and the fort, an imposing edifice that grew over a period of 2 centuries, starting from around 1000 B.C., is naturally fortified by the Aravalli Hills, making it an ideal stronghold. It’s a stiff 20-minute climb to Suraj Pol (Sun Gate) unless you opt for an elephant ascent or a jeep ride (Rs 280 return including Rs 30 parking fee), beyond which lies a beautiful and spotless complex of palaces, halls, pavilions, gardens, and temples. Either travel by car or pretend you are of royal blood and ascend on elephant-back (Rs 600 and up) for one to four riders; if you want to take pictures of the elephants, they pose for you for around Rs 50. After entering Jaleb Chowk through Suraj Pol (more elephants take riders for a turn around the courtyard), dismount and take the flight of stairs up through Singh Pol (Lion Gate) to Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), a raised platform with 27 colonnades. Opposite you’ll see the ornately carved silver doors leading to Shila Devi Temple, which contains an image of the goddess Kali, the appropriate family deity for the warring Rajput Kachchwaha. Massive, three-story, intricately decorated Ganesh Pol (Elephant Gate) leads to the private apartments of the royal family, built around a Mughal-style garden courtyard. Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace)—covered in mirror mosaics and colored glass—would have been the private quarters of the maharaja and his maharani, literally transformed into a glittering jewel box in flickering candlelight; guides will point out the “magic flower” carved in marble at the base of one of the pillars around the mirror palace—recognizable by the two butterflies hovering around it, the flower can be seen to contain seven unique designs (a fish tail, a lotus, a hooded cobra, an elephant trunk, a lion’s tail, a cob of corn, and a scorpion). Above is