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which this palatial Haveli has a private entrance and has plenty of interesting amenities including an in-house cinema. A member of The Small Luxury Hotels of the World, rooms are suitably posh (each of which has its own display cabinet of museum-worthy artifacts) in elegant buildings that look as though they were converted from palace to hotel by an Indian Gianni Versace. Yet, while there’s gold, glitz, and glamour aplenty, we can’t understand exactly how it is positioned, and where trite, piped classical music fit in with a look that’s trying so hard to be bling.

Rajvilās Rajvilās is one of those luxury hotels that is a destination in its own right, albeit along a rather industrial-looking road some distance from Jaipur’s center. With a budget of $20 million, no expense was spared in showcasing the fine craftsmanship typical of the region to create and decorate what is ostensibly a traditional fortified Rajasthani palace. Although it may not have the history of an original heritage hotel, it more than makes up for this with a level of comfort and luxury that is only matched by the better-located but more historical Rambagh Palace. Set amid 13 hectares (32 acres) of orchards, formal gardens, and decorative pools, accommodations are separate from the main fort (which houses the public spaces) in clusters of rooms—between four and six around each central courtyard—and a few luxury tents. all luxuriously decorated in a colonial style offset by Rajasthani elements (fabrics, textiles, and miniatures). Dining enjoys a well-deserved reputation; service throughout is of the renowned exceptional Oberoi quality.

Goner Rd., Jaipur 303 012. 800/5-OBEROI [-623764] in the U.S. and Canada, or 0141/268-0101. Fax 0141/268-0202. www.oberoihotels.com. 71 units. Rs 30,000 premiere double; Rs 36,000 luxury tent; Rs 80,000 royal tent; Rs 1,50,000 luxury villa (with pool); Rs 2,200,000 Kohinoor villa. 10% Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; library/bar; airport transfers complimentary; babysitting; concierge; doctor-on-call; health club; helipad; 5-hole putting green; Internet (Rs 113 30 min.; Rs 225 60 min.; Rs 885 24 hr.); pool; room service; spa; 2 outdoor tennis courts; yoga. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player (complimentary access to CD and DVD library), minibar, villas have private pools, butler, sound system, Wi-Fi (30 min Rs 113; 60 min Rs 225; 24 hrs. Rs 885).

Taj Rambagh Palace If you’re hell-bent on experiencing the blue blood of heritage properties, Rambagh Palace is both the largest and most elegant option in Jaipur, with every amenity you could wish for, and was voted best hotel in the Condé Nast Traveler’s Readers Choice Award 2009. Converted into a hotel in 1957, it remains a favorite of Bollywood stars and socialites. It’s where Jaipur royalty celebrates birthdays, and where the elite and Mayo princes gather to strike deals and cement friendships. A sense of grandeur accompanies every room (even in the simpler, more affordable luxury rooms), but if you want to feel as if you’re actually living in a royal apartment, opt for a “palace” room (no. 317 is just fabulous). Dining at the swish Suvarna Mahal is a grand affair (see review later). The kid-friendly drinking and dining venue, Steam, which inhabits an old train carriage, is novel but seems very out of place in the grand environment with its pizza oven and dated tartan carriages.

Sawani Sing Rd., Jaipur 302 005. 0141/221-1919. Fax 0141/238-5098. www.tajhotels.com. rambagh.jaipur@tajhotels.com. 85 units. Rs 30,000 luxury double; Rs 40,000 palace double; Rs 83,000 historical suite; Rs 140,000 royal suite; Rs 195,000 grand royal suite. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; airport transfers (Rs 500 pickup, A/C); butler service; concierge; cultural performances; doctor-on-call; health club; golf on request; indoor and outdoor heated pools; room service; spa and outdoor Jacuzzi; squash court; tennis; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, electric fireplace; some suites have Jacuzzi; minibar, Wi-Fi (30 mins Rs 125; 1 hour Rs 200; 2 hours Rs 300; 3 hours