India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [438]
Expensive
A couple of heritage properties deserve a mention in this category, and none more so than the Jai Mahal Palace (Jacob Rd., Civil Lines; 0141/222-3636;www.tajhotels.com; Rs 18,000 luxury double). The hotel is architecturally splendid, with buildings dating from 1745, and it’s recently undergone a life-altering renovation that has made it even more comfortable and homely but somehow it cannot shake its tag as a local corporate hangout. The grounds are large and manicured, with a huge pool and tennis court. Guest rooms are bright, if a little compact, and dining venues funky (particularly the sultry, mauve Cinnamon, known as much for its cocktails as it is for its Indian cuisine), but it’s neither as grand as Taj Rambagh nor as romantic or authentic as Samode or Alsisar havelis (both of which offer better value for money).
Samode Haveli This 200-year-old city mansion is well located (one of the few accommodations within the old walled city) and oozes authenticity, with higgledy-piggledy rooms of various sizes furnished in typical Rajasthani antiques and featuring pillars and cusped arches painted with traditional motifs, tiny colored-glass windows, marble floors, and deep alcoves for lounging. Accommodations all have newly renovated luxury bathrooms with tubs and separate showers; 106 has its own balcony and view of the courtyard. If you want to be close to the pool and garden book 116 through 120, which have porches and direct access. The most interesting rooms are those housed in the zenana (traditionally the part of the house where women were secluded), particularly the Sheesh Mahal Suite, in which every inch of wall and ceiling is covered in tiny glass mirrors or delicately executed miniature paintings—the effect in candlelight is not dissimilar to the celebrated Sheesh Mahal at nearby Amber Fort (though it’s worth mentioning that some find the extralow ceilings and numerous pillars claustrophobic). Note: At press time, there were plans to introduce nine more guest rooms and a new restaurant in an adjoining but quite separate property on the other side of the lawns. These promise to be newly renovated in a more modern classical style and may provide some lift to the old haveli style,
Samode Haveli, Ganga Pol, Jaipur 302 992. 0141/263-2407, -2370, or -1942. Fax 0141/263-1397. www.samode.com. reservations@samode.com. 40 units. Low season (May 1–Sept 30) to high season (Oct 1–Apr 31): Rs 10,950 deluxe double; Rs 12,500 deluxe suite; Rs 15,000 Sheesh Mahal, Rs 13,500 Haveli suite; Rs 2,700 extra bed. Rates include breakfast; taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining hall; bar; airport transfers; children’s playground; doctor-on-call; fitness center; spa pool; steam room; Internet and Wi-Fi free. In room: A/C, fan, TV, minibar.
Moderate
Alsisar Haveli This is the most elegant, well-maintained heritage property in its price category in Jaipur, offering excellent value for money. Built in 1892 and still owned by the amiable Kachchwaha clan of Rajputs, it has all the traditional elements of Rajput architecture—scalloped arches and pretty cupolas, painted ceilings and colored glass windows, and a maze of corridors and stairs around and through inner courtyards. Rooms vary in size, but all are furnished with antiques. Ask for deluxe no. 110 set around the cool, inner courtyard with plants and birdsong or the wonderful suites (107, 108) off Sheesh Mahal. You can take tea around the pool, or retreat to the tables on the lawn for total peace. The lounge is beautifully furnished, but the dining hall sets the place apart. Unlike the oppressive rooms so typical of heritage properties (like Samode Haveli), Alsisar’s is filled with light; the food (local Shekhawati fare) is tasty; breakfast will run you Rs 350, while lunch and dinner (both buffets) costs Rs 550 plus taxes.
Sansar Chandra Rd., Jaipur 302 001. 0141/236-8290 or -4685. Fax 0141/236-4652. www.alsisar.com. 37 units. Rs 3,900 double; Rs 4,550 deluxe suite; Rs 850 extra bed. Rates exclude taxes. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; doctor-on-call; Internet