India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [439]
Narain Niwas Palace Like Alsisar, Narain Niwas provides you with an opportunity to live in a heritage property for relatively little money (though Alsisar still has the edge in terms of atmosphere, ambience, decor, and service). Built in 1928 by Gen. Amar Singh, the 3-hectare (7-acre) property is still a green oasis surrounded by the city, but some of the spaces have started to show signs of wear in recent years. Look out for the newly renovated rooms (nos. 51–57); individually furnished with antique beds and chairs, these feature pretty frescoes and block-print fabrics (on rather thin mattresses) and are close to the pool, opening onto a particularly lush part of the garden—an essential balm after tackling Jaipur’s streets. Avoid the monstrously overpriced new “garden suites.” Buffet-style meals are taken on the lawns or in the dark, claustrophobic dining hall, which, like the antiques-filled lounge, features scalloped arches decorated with frescoes.
Kanota Bagh, Narain Sing Rd., Jaipur 302 004. 0141/256-1291 or -3448. Fax 0141/256-1045. www.hotelnarainniwas.com. 31 units. Rs 4,200 standard double; Rs 5,500 suite; Rs 6,500 Kanota suite; Rs 9,500 garden suite; Rs 1,400 extra bed. Breakfast included; taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining hall; bar; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); Ayurvedic massage; pool; room service; table tennis; yoga and meditation. In room: A/C, fan, TV in some, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 112/hr.).
Shahpura House Located in the heart of a relaxed residential neighborhood, yet only 10 minutes (3km/1 3⁄4 miles) from the city, one of Jaipur’s best-value hotels was built just half a century ago by a noble member of the Shekhawat’s Shahpura clan (Shahpura is 65km/40 miles from Jaipur). It’s still a family run affair and the aristocratic owner has dressed the place in what might be termed “haveli style,” with decor that runs from framed black-and-white family photographs to elaborate chandeliers to detailed frescoes. Accommodations are very comfortable, with marble floors, antique furniture, block-print curtains, and beds covered with smart white linen. The cheaper deluxe rooms are more boxy, but if you can book no. 206, you’ll have a spacious bathroom, large bed, and a window overlooking the pool. Of the decently priced suites, no. 306 has a balcony overlooking the pool.
Devi Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur 302 016. 0141/220-2292 or -2293. Fax 0141/220-1494. www.shahpurahouse.com. shahpurahous@usa.net. 32 units. Rs 3,500 deluxe double; Rs 4,500 suite; Rs 5,000 royal suite; Rs 800 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfers (Rs 400 one-way); complimentary station and bus stand pickup; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; pool; room service; Internet and Wi-Fi (Rs 60/30 mins). In room: A/C, fan, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi in some (Rs 120/hr.).
Inexpensive
Another budget option—though nowhere as nice as Diggi Palace (below) Umaid Bhawan ( 0141/220-6426, 0141/231-6184, or 0141/220-1276; fax 0141/220-7445; www.umaidbhawan.com; email@umaidbhawan.com) is an old haveli in a residential street offering dark but clean rooms—all with A/C—which have the usual antique furnishings and attached showers; ask to see a few as they are all different. It also has a nice pool out front. Deluxe Rooms go for Rs 1,500 but rather ask for a Royal Deluxe Room overlooking the pool (Rs 1,800) which comes with A/C and fan. Internet and Wi-Fi are Rs 60 per hour.
Diggi Palace This is still the best budget option in Jaipur, where you get the opportunity to overnight in a rambling, 200-year-old haveli for a fraction of the rates charged elsewhere. The drawbacks of this budget-value haven are that it can be busy and it’s a long walk from the Old City: The “palace”—which it is not—lies at the edge of a big open lawn and is within walking distance of Ram Niwas Gardens and the Central Museum. The leafy, well-established gardens filled with bird chatter and brand-new pool are a wonderful respite. Rooms vary in size, but