India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [452]
Sher Bagh If you’re looking for a more authentic safari experience, this intimate camp is a great choice. The irrepressible and charming owner, Jaisal Singh, is a superb host (when around), and a member of what could be described as Ranthambhore royalty. (He is Fateh Singh Rathore’s godchild and practically grew up in the park between bouts of polo playing and hobnobbing with the rich and famous.) Accommodations comprise a semicircle of comfortable tents (originally designed for the Maharaja of Jodhpur’s hunting expeditions), each with its own veranda and an en-suite bathroom. Tents are a little too close together and hot during the day (fans, but no air-conditioning), but there are a number of places to relax; the coolest is the first-floor bar/lounge area in the main building, which looks and feels a bit like a Spanish hacienda. Meals are a welcome relief from standard North Indian fare. At night, when the lanterns and torches are lit, the camp really comes into its own. Engaging in idle chatter while imbibing G&Ts, your feet in the sand and stars above, makes this one of the most relaxing experiences in North India.
Sherpur-Khiljipur, Sawai Madhopur 322 001. 07462/25-2120 or -2119. Reservations: 011/2374-3194 or -3195. Fax 011/2334-5429. www.sujanluxury.com or www.sherbagh.com. reservations@sujanluxury.com. 12 units. Rs 20,000 double. Rate includes all meals, morning and evening tea, and transfers. Taxes extra. MC, V. Closed Apr 15–Oct 1. Amenities: Dining tent; bar and jungle bar; hospital-on-call; massage; excursions room service; complimentary station transfer.
Vanyavilās Set on 8 hectares (20 acres) of landscaped gardens, this superb resort retreat exemplifies the type of cosseted luxury of the Oberoi. Surrounded by a mud wall enclosing a wraparound garden the tent “rooms” are not as safari-like as those at Aman-i-Khás, and the overall outdoor setting not quite as back-to-nature, but they are nevertheless gorgeous, featuring huge canvas roofs shot through with gold sparkles, teak floors, solid walls hung with artwork, opulent Indo-colonial furnishings, and all the modern conveniences. Bathrooms are the size of most hotel rooms. The property does sprawl somewhat amid lotus ponds and lush bird-filled vegetation, forcing rather long walks (you can, of course, call for a golf cart), and, unlike Sher Bagh and Aman-i-Khas, the well-manicured surroundings give you little sense of being near a wilderness. But the superb service, great dining, excellent spa, sparkling pool, and sheer opulence of the public spaces more than make up for this. Best of all is the opportunity to sit in on one of the regular lectures given by Fateh Singh Rathore, the man who put Ranthambhore on the map.
Ranthambhore Rd., Sawai Madhopur 322 001. 07462/22-3999. Reservations: 800/6-OBEROI [-623764] in the U.S., or 1600/11-2030. www.oberoihotels.com. 25 units. Rs 36,500 double. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; library bar; billiards room; chauffeur-driven cars; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; elephant safaris; fitness tent; game drives; Internet (charges as below); pool; complimentary station transfer; spa; observation tower; yoga. In room: A/C, TV, DVD/CD music system (including selection of CDs and DVDs), minibar, Wi-Fi (30 min Rs 113; 60 min Rs 225; 24 hrs. Rs 885).
Perfect Pit Stop Between Jaipur & Udaipur
Of the two recommendations below, our first choice is for Shahpura Bagh, not least because it gives you easy access to the nearby village which is still as yet unspoiled by tourism.
Deogarh Mahal & Fort Seengh Sagar Comprising an ornate 17th-century fort-palace with domed turrets and balconies,