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Deogarh Palace towers over the village that shares (pronounced Devgarh) below. Rooms vary considerably (you are welcome to and should look around when you arrive, and choose one), and some are beautifully furnished, with little done to change the authenticity of the architecture (right down to the slightly erratic plumbing); others are looking dated. Book one of the six suites (there are three categories but ask for nos. 235, 250–251) and pretend that all you survey from your private balcony is yours. It is authentic (ask for the historical audio tour researched by William Dalrymple and proprietor historian Col. Randhir Singhji), but thanks to the town village temple’s loudspeaker (which chimes on the half hour and extensively on the hour!) as well as regular group tours it is not as peaceful as nearby sister establishment, Fort Seengh Sagar. An island fortress set on a tranquil lake surrounded by palms, acacias, and rocky granite outcrops, this intimate, old hunting fort has been converted into a luxury villa with just four suites, each a rich amalgam of traditional Rajasthani furniture and modern elements. Each room has a private lake-view balcony; there’s also a sublime public terrace where you can dine under the stars, and on winter nights a roaring fire vies with the stars for attention. Both palace and fort are personally managed by Col. Randhir Singhji, the Thakur of Deogarh, and his son VB, who will make you feel like a long-lost aristocrat. Note that Deogarh is ideal to stop at after or before you’ve visited the Ranakpur Temples and Kumbhalgarh Fort (see Excursions under Udaipur entry), en route to or from Jaipur (280km/174 miles away) or Jodhpur (170km/105 miles away).

Deogarh Madaria, District Rajsamand, Rajasthan 313 331. 02904/25-2777. Fax 02904/25-2555. www.deogarhmahal.com. info@deogarhmahal.com. Deogarh: 60 units. Low season (Apr–Sept)/high season (Oct–Mar): Rs 7,000/Rs 8,050 deluxe double; Rs 9,000/Rs 10,350 deluxe suite; Rs 12,000/Rs 14,800 royal suite. Seenghh Sagar: 4 units. Rs 15,000 suite, with discounts on each additional suite; Rs 48,000 for all 4 suites. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (1 rooftop); bar; coffee shop; lounge; babysitting; bicycles; doctor-on-call; gym; henna; horse riding; Internet (Rs 100/hr.); Jacuzzi; jeep safaris, library; Ayurvedic massage; movies; pool; kids’ pool; snooker; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV (not in all the rooms), minibar (and at Seeghh Sagar).

Shahpura Bagh Located precisely midway between Jaipur and Udaipur, this is one of our favorite destinations, a place for calm contemplation and serious relaxation. Beautifully appointed and set in a lush, verdant, 18-hectare (45-acre) wooded estate, the buildings are pukka colonial-era, with a classic veranda lined by squat white pillars. Most guest rooms are vast, double-volume affairs with tall, arched windows that make for plenty of light, and large well-appointed bathrooms. The large man-made dam along the perimeter of the north and west boundaries of the property is a bird-watcher’s paradise (with an island heronry) while the lush forested surrounds attract jungle cats and jackals. Aside from the immaculate accommodations, Shahpura Bagh has an incredibly homely atmosphere, because it is still the family’s home and is run as such with home-cooked meals (prearrange for authentic Rajasthani cooking lessons) served at the family table (though arrangements can be made to decamp to various romantic spots around the property). Their expansive new infinity pool is one of the best in Rajasthan, presided over by a towering pepul tree and surrounded by peacocks and date palms. Packed lunches for picnic walks and cycle tours make it easy to spend the day exploring the lush surrounds or the quaint adjacent village.

Shahpura Bagh, District Bhilwara 311 404. 98-281-22012 or -22013. Fax 01484/22-2077. www.shahpurabagh.com. res@shahpurabagh.com. 10 units. Rs 10,500 double; Rs 14,500 royal suite; Rs 2,500 extra bed. Rates include breakfast and one jeep safari with nonalcoholic refreshments; taxes extra. 20% discount