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By Root 1936 0

in 1459 by Rao Jodhaji, chief of the Rathore Rajputs who ruled over Marwar, “land of death,” Jodhpur was to become one of Rajputana’s wealthiest cities, capitalizing on its central position on the Delhi-Gujarat trade route and protected by one of the most impenetrable forts in history. Today it is the state’s second-largest city, much of it a sprawling, polluted metropolis, but within the old walls—where every building is painted the same light blue hue, earning Jodhpur the nickname “Blue City”—you’ll find a teeming maze of narrow medieval streets and bazaars, where life appears much as it has for centuries. Towering above is Mehrangarh (Majestic) Fort, its impenetrable walls rising like sheer cliffs from the rocky outcrop on which it is built. From its crenelated ramparts you enjoy postcard views of the ancient blue city below and, in the distance, the grand silhouette of Umaid Bhawan Palace, residence of the current Maharaja and award winning (Condé Nast Traveler 2009 Hotel of the Year) heritage hotel. Within the fort is a typical Rajput palace that today houses one of the state’s best-presented museums, artfully displaying the accumulated accouterments of the royal house of Rathore in the beautifully preserved royal apartments.

The labyrinthine Old City is a more visually exciting experience than Jaipur, but besides exploring these medieval streets and visiting Mehrangarh Fort and Umaid Bhawan Palace, there’s not much to hold you here for more than a day or two—most people use Jodhpur as a jumping-off point to Jaisalmer or as an overnight stop before traveling on to Jaipur or Udaipur.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION The tourist reception center is located in the RTDC Ghoomar Tourist Bungalow, on High Court Road ( 0291/254-5083 or 254-4010; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; closed second Sat of the month). Your own hotel’s reception will assist with reservations for sightseeing and day tours. The tourist help line number is 1364 (Mon–Sat 9am–5pm). Convenient places to withdraw cash against your credit card are the HDFC or ICICI ATM at Ratanada Chauraha, UTI Bank (near Kwality Inn, Chandra Hotel), or Bank of Baroda (Sojati Gate).

GETTING THERE Traveling by car from Udaipur takes approximately 51⁄2 hours with no stops; the journey from Jaipur takes about 61⁄2 to 7 hours. However, Jodhpur is very well connected by rail and air. As always, try to book flights with the more professional Jet Airways ( 0291/510-3333 or -2222 city office, 0291/251-5551 or -5552 airport), though you’ll have to use Indian Airlines ( 0291/251-0757 or -0758 city office, 0291/251-2617 airport) if you want to fly to Udaipur. Jodhpur’s airport ( 0291/251-2934) lies 4km (2 1⁄2 miles) south of the city. Expect to pay about Rs 270 for a taxi into town; this will be less if you use the prepaid taxi service. Jodhpur’s main train station ( 131 or 132) is on Station Road, just south of the Old City walls. The overnight Mandor Express links the city to Delhi in 121⁄2 hours; the Jaipur Intercity Express gets you here from Jaipur in 5 hours. There are two daily trains from Jaisalmer (6 hr.), early morning and late at night. At press time, train services to/from Udaipur were still suspended until the completion of the new railway line.

GETTING AROUND Rickshaws are the most useful way to get around the Old City (a 15-min. ride should cost around Rs 50), but you’ll need to hire a taxi if you plan to visit the outlying attractions. To hire a car and driver for the day (or longer—for instance, for a round-trip to Jaisalmer or to Udaipur), contact Kawaljeet Singh on Rajasthan Tours ( 0291/251-2428 or -2932; www.rajasthantouronline.com). For local travel needs call Dilip Singh at Travel Plan at 0291/251-2354 (jodhpur@travelplanraj.com; A-1 Sir Pratap Colony, Airport Rd.), who can arrange excellent guides (ask for Kalyan Singh) and everything from tailored packages to drivers and onward travel.

FESTIVALS Diwali, the Hindu New Year celebration that takes place in October/November, is celebrated all over India, but the “Festival of Lights” is particularly exciting when viewed from