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the lawns of Umaid Bhawan Palace. At the grand bash held by Maharaja Gaj Singh II, you can experience firsthand the deep reverence with which the former ruler of Jodhpur and Marwar is still treated—everyone wants to kiss the hem and touch the hand of their beloved father figure. The 2-day Marwar Festival, held during the full moon in October, is also worth attending, particularly to see the fire dance held on the Osian dunes. Celebrations include classical folk music concerts, puppet shows, camel polo, and even turban-tying contests. The end of the festivities is heralded with the fire dance, when men jump over burning wood to the rhythm of drums and chants. Sometimes dancers perform on top of red-hot coals, moving in an almost trancelike state to percussion beats.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

Having visited the fort and Umaid Bhawan Palace, there’s no reason to overextend yourself, especially given the dusty heat. If you’re here for a few days you may opt to include a trip to Mandore, which lies 9km (5 1⁄2 miles) north of the Old City. The previous capital of Marwar (not to be confused with Mewar, the princely state of Udaipur), Mandore has as its principal attractions today gardens (in dire need of attention) in which lie the templelike cenotaphs built to honor the Rathore rulers before final rites were moved to Jaswant Thada (see Mehrangarh Fort & Museum, below). The largest and grandest of the red-sandstone structures was also the last to be built here; it commemorates the life of Maharaja Dhiraj Ajit Singh, who died in 1763. Beyond, in a totally separate section (pious to the end), is a group of smaller cenotaphs, built to commemorate the female counterparts. Opposite the weird but ultimately missable museum is the Hall of Heroes, a collection of 18th-century deities and Rajput heroes carved out of a rock wall. If you haven’t tired of temples by now, you can move on to visit the Hindu and Jain temples at Osian, 65km (40 miles) north of Jodhpur. You first come across the Vishnu and Harihara temples, which were built between the 8th and 9th centuries, but more impressive (or at least still alive with worship) are Sacchiya Mata (12th c.) and Mahavira Jain temples (8th and 10th c.). See Ranakpur Temples, earlier in this chapter, for rules on entering a Jain temple. Virtually every hotel and agent in town arranges village safaris, in which you are taken into the arid surrounds to make contact with the rural Bishnoi people, sample their food, and learn about their traditional remedies and crafts; expect to pay from Rs 1,500 for two people for a 5-hour trip that should include some wildlife sightings. If you’re curious, ask your operator or hotel if you can also see a traditional opium tea drinking ceremony, which forms part of the daily rituals of village life. You can arrange these safaris through Travel Plan or the RTDC at the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above), but you’ll save yourself much effort by asking your hotel to make all arrangements.

Mehrangarh Fort & Museum “The work of angels, fairies and giants . . . he who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings; it as though he walked through mountain gorges . . .” wrote Rudyard Kipling in 1899. Little has changed since then, and for many this looming 15th-century edifice to Rajput valor is still Rajasthan’s most impressive fort, with walls that soar like sheer cliffs 120m (400 ft.) high, literally dwarfing the city at its base, and a proud history of never having fallen to its many invaders. Before you start exploring the fort, pick up an audioguide (free with entry fee; passport or driver’s license required as deposit). This is in fact one of the best audioguides you will get at a tourist site in India, with sound effects and commentaries from former rulers of Jodhpur recorded on an MP3 player in seven languages. It contains additional information on subjects like the caste system, the maharajas, miniature paintings, and more. If you prefer a more interactive tour, where you do not have to stand around in listening groups and can ask questions, then