India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [487]
Gulab Sagar, Jodhpur 342 001. 0291/329-3328, 0291/263-8344, or 09350408034. www.palhaveli.com. info@palhaveli.com. 21 units. Rs 3,000 standard double; Rs 4,000 heritage double; Rs 6,000 suite; Rs 8,000 Historical Suite; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; airport transfers from Rs 400; bar; billiards room; complimentary station pickup; doctor-on-call; room service; village safaris; Internet and Wi-Fi free. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.
Ratan Vilas Built in 1920 by current owner Brij Raj Singh’s grandfather, this haveli has been painstakingly restored, preserving its traditional character while adding modern comforts—which makes it an excellent option in this price category. Air-conditioned rooms are simple, naturally lit and tastefully styled with antique furniture (which Brij Raj collects) and traditional hand-block-printed curtains and bed sheets (book deluxe room no. 101, 102, or 104, or bag one of the slightly larger units in the new wing). It’s a homey place with old family photographs and souvenirs adorning the walls—no five-star amenities, of course, but the food has home-cooked freshness, service is prompt and personalized, and you can even ask to step into the kitchen for a demonstration of traditional Rajasthani cooking. Sun-worshipers can take advantage of the sun-deck chairs on the terrace and veranda,
Loco Shed Rd., Ratanada, Jodhpur 342 001. /fax 0291/261-4418.www.ratanvilas.com. info@ratanvilas.com. 21 units. Rs 900 non-A/C double; Rs 1,200 A/C double; Rs 2,000 deluxe double; Rs 2,650 superior double; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. MC, V. Amenities: Dining hall; bar; complimentary pickup; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 100/hr.); village jeep safari. In room: A/C, TV.
Umaid Bhawan Palace Far and away the grandest lodging in Jodhpur, this is also one of the proudest pieces of architecture in the state (see “What to See & Do,” above). Its formidable sense of grandeur is augmented by the galley of turbaned staff who will make you feel like royalty. It has every amenity; even an in-house cinema, which you can reserve (ask the concierge to recommend a big-budget Bollywood DVD). The quality of rooms varies according to what you’re able to spend; this is a good place to indulge if you can afford one of the historical suites—these grand spaces are packed with gorgeous period furniture, lovely artworks, and every possible amenity. Alternatively, ask for a room with a private terrace. Wherever you stay you can wander the vast lawn where Liz Hurley staged her much-publicized wedding to her Indian beau, Arun Nayar, then head for the outdoor pool—a tranquil spot to unwind at the end of the day and, with cocktail in hand, watch the fort light up as the sun descends.
Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur 342 006. 0291/251-0101. Fax 0291/251-0100. www.tajhotels.com. 75 units. Rs 40,000 palace double; Rs 83,000 historical suite; Rs 140,000 royal suite; Rs 300,000 grand royal suite—Maharaja; Rs 500,000 grand presidential suite Maharani. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; smoking lounge/reading room; airport transfers from Rs 500; billiards room; cinema; concierge; doctor-on-call; DVD library; gym; health club; Internet (as below); outdoor pool; indoor pool; room service; spa; marble squash court; tennis. In room: A/C, TV, CD/DVD player, hair dryer, minibar, personal butler, Wi-Fi (30 mins Rs 125; 1 hour Rs 200; 2 hours Rs 300; 3 hours Rs 600).
Outskirts of Jodhpur
Mihir Garh As you canter through the Thar Desert on your Marwari horse you start to make out the crenellated ramparts of the regal and perfectly proportioned Mihir Garh, “Fortress of the Sun,” home—hopefully for more than a day. Like a mirage that rises from the surrounding savanna, this natural mud fort, finished