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with Jaisalmer desert sand, is surrounded by the space and peacefulness that only the desert brings. Catching the breeze blowing off the plains and surrounded by natural vegetation of indigenous trees, shrubs and local crops, the nine well-appointed suites, all with plunge pools or Jacuzzis, and with spacious bathrooms (bathtubs and walk-in showers) command sweeping views over the savanna and are exquisitely decorated with a nod to the local vernacular. Private terraces extrude tastefully where you can watch the sunset, practice yoga, dine privately or sleep under the stars. This is a special place, and one that demands at least 2 full nights to drink it all in, participate in the unique activities, and experience the beauty, peace, and culture of the local Marwari in their natural surroundings.

Mihir Garh 02936/268531. Fax 02936/268331. www.mihirgarh.com. Rs 24,000 suite. Rates include all meals and drinks excluding imported liquor and champagne and includes village safari. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bird-watching by bicycle or horse; concierge; cooking demonstrations and classes; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); royal picnic lunch; pool; room service and in-room dining; safaris—jeep, horse, and camel (Mihir Garh hosts an annual horse show, showcasing the Marwari horses); spa; village safaris; yoga. In room: A/C, Jacuzzi or plunge pools and fireplaces in all rooms.

Rohet Garh Professionally run by its aristocratic owner, Sidharth Singh, Rohet Garh may be a tad far from Jodhpur, but the rural peace is intoxicating—peacocks lazily strut on the lawns and pose on the rooftops, while the adjacent village makes for great exploration without the hassle of wandering the streets of the city. It also has a lovely pool in the central courtyard, from which you can access the dining room, serving good-quality Rajasthani food (try the barbecued meats and dal makhani). Rooms, as is always the case with heritage properties, vary dramatically (ask to see what’s available when you arrive), but all are relatively spacious, featuring frescoes and Rajasthani antiques in bright, minimalist arrangements. Book the most recently renovated rooms (nos. 6 and 7) though these are around the pool, so are not that private (for more privacy, ask for no. 15 or 30). Room 27 is especially large, with a big shower and a huge carved bed, and has (along with other lake-view suites) a lovely window seats for lazing about with a good book. A couple of the rooms have direct views into the stables, where there are 12 Marwar steeds. Outings include visits to traditional Bishnoi villages; if you have the time, ask about the miniature paintings workshops or sign up for a cooking class.

Note: Also available for travelers with a greater sense of adventure are six luxury tents (Rs 11,500 double, including all meals, evening tea, and village safari), pitched in the desert, 17km (11 miles) away. The tents are a great extension of the activities available at Rohet, and if you are doing the village safari on horseback and stopping for a royal picnic lunch at a small lake you should consider completing your day out in the countryside and stay the night. The campsite offers deep tranquillity, and phenomenal stargazing (though Madonna and her entourage, who stayed for 2 nights, have since left!)

Rohet Garh, Vill P.O. Rohet, District Pali, Rajasthan 306 401. 02936/268-231 or reservations in Jodhpur 0291/243-1161. Fax 0291/264-9368. www.rohetgarh.com. 34 units. Rs 5,000 deluxe double; Rs 7,000 suite. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar/lounge; bird-watching by bicycle; cooking demonstrations; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); pool; room service; safaris—jeep, horse, and camel. In room: A/C, fan.

SHOPPING

Jodhpur is famous for its antiques dealers, most lining the road that runs between Ajit Bhawan and Umaid Bhawan. These can be prohibitively pricey, however, particularly when you factor in freight prices. Jodhpur is also good for tie-dye fabrics. The best bazaars are around