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31 units) and arguably quieter and more peaceful option than the next-door Fort Rajwada, this Taj property, geared more for the independent traveler than groups, is wonderfully laid out with natural stone and a sense of scale and proportion that makes its neighbor appear cumbersome and unwieldy. The attractive dining room serves signature Laal Maas and Bajra and Sogra, and opens out onto a lovely courtyard that includes a perfect pool which has a stunning view of the fort in the distance. In fact, this is the best pool in Jaisalmer and is for residents only. The rooms are a bit affected for a new Gateway property.

Jodhpur-Jaisalmer Rd., Jaisalmer 345 001, Rajasthan. 0299/225-1874 or -252-638. Fax 0299/225-0444. www.thegatewayhotels.com. gateway.jaisalmer@tajhotels.com. 32 units. Rs 6,500 suite; Rs 800 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; doctor-on-call; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV.

Nachana Haveli This is by far the best heritage option in the city, and particularly good if you’re young at heart and want to hang with Jaisalmer’s friendly and hip elite. Almost 3 centuries old, this atmospheric mansion (next door to the royal palace) has seen better days, but it has real character and charm, with 13 individually styled rooms (we like room nos. 111 and 107; and no. 112 is quite lovely). The family run hotel is the brainchild of Vikram, the globe-trotting son of the Maharaja of Nachana and cousin of Jaisalmer’s own king. He’s a bit of a collector, so all spaces are decorated with eclectic paraphernalia; the vaulted ground-floor lounge, in particular, feels like a motley family museum. Vikram’s younger brother, Shakti, arranges unique desert experiences for you, provided you give him sufficient warning (see “Camel Safari,” above) while their beautiful sister Divya will pick out something perfect for you from her boutique. At press time, Vikram was planning an underground lounge bar and rooftop pool, both welcome prospects. Note: As with most hotels, rates are increased by Rs 1,000 during the Desert Festival. Saffron rooftop restaurant serves typical Rajasthani cuisine from an open kitchen specializing in a variety of tandoori kebabs and their signature organic lal maas.

Hotel Nachana Haveli Goverdhan Chowk, Jaislamer 345001 02992/25- 2110, -5565. Fax 02992/25-1910. www.nachanahaveli.com. nachana_haveli@yahoo.com. 12 units. Rs 3,000 deluxe double; Rs 4,000 suite, Rs 700 extra bed. Rates include all meals and drinks except imported liquor and champagne and includes village safari. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; rooftop dining; bar; bird-watching; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet free; room service; safaris, jeep, horse, and camel. In room: A/C, fan, Wi-Fi in some (free).

Rang Mahal The newest property in Jaisalmer and arguably the fanciest, and offering relatively good value, this modern, mediaeval styled hotel has ambitiously developed over 150 rooms in anticipation of the new airport. Set around beautiful gardens and a large, clean pool the rooms are the most luxurious in Jaisalmer (ask for a pool facing deluxe or suite) and even come with flatscreen TVs in the marbled bathrooms. It has a pool bar, a billiard table, and its comfortable a la carte restaurant (the dining hall is rather large and faceless) serves reliable local and Continental fare. For those looking for modern brand-new comforts, and it being closer to town than the two options below, and with eager-to-please management and really good rooms, our vote is split between this and the Gateway above.

5, Hotel Complex, Sam Rd., Jaisalmer. 02992/25-0907, -0908, 3943, 3944, or -1485. Fax 02992/25-1305. www.hotelrangmahal.com. info@hotelrangmahal.com. 150 units. Rs 3,500 standard double; Rs 5,000 deluxe room; Rs 8,100 royal room and tower suite; Rs 14,000 royal suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Meals extra: breakfast Rs 300, lunch Rs 550, dinner Rs 650. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; sunset bar; billiards room; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club;