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renowned ashram was Gandhi’s base and headquarters from 1917—1930 during his protracted and resolved fight for Indian independence. It was also from this very site that he set out on his famous salt march to Dandi on the Gulf of Cambay in protest against the British control of the essential mineral. His frugal quarters are well preserved, including his belongings (spectacles, sandals and some utensils) and there is an excellent record of his life and times in chronological context, as well as excerpts from his speeches, political missives and autobiography. The testimonials from famous peers and colleagues are both humbling and inspiring and one leaves feeling a real sense of awe at this great man who said, “My life is my message.” There is also an excellent bookshop where you can buy his works and some Gandhi memorabilia (we incidentally recommend The Life of Mahatma Gandhi by Louis Fischer, one of the most readable biographies on Gandhi).

Northern end of Ashram Rd. 079/2755 7277. Free admission. Daily 8:30am–6:30pm.

EXCURSIONS FURTHER AFIELD

Shatrunjaya, Palitana The holy Jain mount of Shatrunjaya is located alongside the small, insipid town of Palitana which is not worth a stop over by any means. But with over 900 beautiful temples in relatively good shape (some in mint condition, always being worked on through donations from wealthy businessmen) this is a must-visit if you have an interest in temple architecture, are relatively fit, and like sweeping views—here of the surrounding countryside, the Gulf of Cambay to the south, Bhavnagar to the north, and the Shatrunjaya mountains and river flowing through the verdant hills behind. Records prove that the hill was a tirtha (the Jain’s first tirthankara, Adinath, achieved enlightenment here) as far back as the 5th century, however due to the Muslim raids the existing temples date from the 16th century. It is a special place and one that requires silence and meditation along its beautiful path and up into its pious, labyrinthine temples. The climb takes between 1 and 2 hours and is utterly rewarding, but if you feel you really cannot manage it, you can hire a dholi (four pole bearers with a seat). Be sure to take lots of water and a hat, as there are no shops or services atop.

There is a small museum located 400m (1,312 ft.) before the start of the temple steps displaying some Jain religious artifacts.

Daily 6:30am–7:45pm, museum hours daily 8am–noon and 4–8:30pm. Museum entry Rs10. Photography fee Rs 100.

Rani-ki-Vav Baoli, Patan The old Gujarati capital Anhilawada Patan, 2km (1 mile) northwest of today’s dusty town, served several Rajput dynasties and the Solankis between the 8th and 12th centuries before being taken by the Mughals. In 1411 it began to fall into decline when Ahmed Shah moved his capital to Ahmedabad and today few signs of this history remain except for Patan’s beautiful and well-restored Rani-ki-Vav baoli (step well), which is certainly worth the 130km (81-mile) day trip or stopover to/from Ahmedabad en route to Dasada, Kutch. Built in 1050 for the Solanki queen Udaimati, it is the oldest and finest in Gujarat, and has been brought to life through its excellent restoration in the 1980s. Prior to that it had been almost completely hidden and protected by silt, with only its top exposed. Its carvings are exquisite and the various incarnations of Vishnu are something to behold. After gaping at these well-preserved sandstone beauties take a short drive into Patan town to wander the quaint old quarters’ streets of wooden havelis and to look at its famous export (especially to royalty) Patola silk saris, with bright, distinctive patterns, some of which fetch up to Rs 70,000 and can take upward of 6 months to create.

Daily 8am-6pm. Rs 100.

Modhera The stunning Sun Temple, located 102km (63 miles) northwest of Ahmedabad, was built by King Bhimdev I in 1026, and is perhaps the state’s highlight in religious architecture, and well worth a visit en route to Dasada, or even a day’s outing from Ahmedabad together with Patan (above). In tribute to its solar deity