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it was designed in the Solanki style so as to capture the dawn sunlight on the image of Surya, the sun god, during the equinoxes. Set in lush peaceful grounds one approaches first to the Surya Kund, a beautifully proportioned rectangular baoli (step well) containing over 100 shrines to Ganesh, Vishnu, and Shiva. There is a wonderful view from the side that looks directly on to the Main Hall and the Shrine’s pillared pavilions and one can immediately appreciate the perfect proportions of this intricate, modest complex. Up close the carved detail is especially elaborate and the 52 pillars depict scenes from the Mahabaratha and Ramayana with erotic beauties seeming to pose for your camera. Look out for the interior display of the 12 representations of Surya’s different monthly expressions and note the damage where the temple was ruined by the Muslim ruler Mahmud of Ghazni (who effected similar damage to Rani-ki-Vav at Patan).

Daily 8am–6pm. Rs 100.

WHERE TO STAY

House of Mangaldas Girdhardas (House of MG) The only option with any real character, this is by far our top pick in Ahmedabad, though it is in a noisy location. Built in the 1920s by Seth Mangaldas Girdhardas, this was the wealthy industrialist and textile merchant’s family home, and is today as much family heirloom (still owned and run by the family) as quirky boutique hotel. While noisy, it is certainly convenient (very central), and the service is friendly, rooms are spacious (a tad schizophrenic in terms of decor), and the restaurant one of the best in the city (see “Where to Dine,” below). It really is the only place to stay in Ahmedabad, and with free airport transfers, and incidental Wi-Fi costs, offers good value (though we do not approve of the 9am check-out time; if this doesn’t suit your itinerary, bargain upfront that you can leave later at no charge, or you have to cough up). Be sure to ask for a Deluxe Room at the back (nos. 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7) or a quiet Grand Deluxe Suite (nos. 14, 15, 16) to escape the racket of the road. All the rooms are large but if you are craving space then try The Mangaldas Suite (Rs 12,990) on the top floor.

House of Mangaldas Heritage Hotel. Dr. Tankaria Rd., across from Sidi Sayyid’s Mosque, Lal Darwaja. 079/2550 6946. Fax 079/2550 6535. www.houseofmg.com. 11 units. Mangaldas Suite Rs 12,990; Rs 9,990 Grand Deluxe Suite double; Rs 6,490 Grand Deluxe Room double; Rs 4,990 Deluxe Room. Rates include breakfast. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; airport transfers (free); gym; Internet Rs100/24 hr.; DVD and book library; indoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, DVD-MP3, iPod, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs100/day).

The Taj Gateway Ummed Ahmedabad Located 1.6km (1 mile) from the airport and less than 6.4km (4 miles) from the CBD, this Gateway Hotel is the most peaceful option in Ahmedabad, with upmarket, corporate-style accommodation within easy striking distance of the chaos of the city. Designwise it’s not going to win any awards but rooms are cool, clean, and spacious, room service is efficient, and the large pool a boon. Only 15 minutes from the city center (assuming moderate traffic) it is understandably popular with business travelers, but it has none of the character and history of the House of MG, and it’s a great deal more expensive. The four deluxe suites are fabulous but a pool-facing double will more than do.

International Airport Circle, Hansol, Ahmedabad 382 475, Gujarat, India. 079/6666 1234 or 1800/111-TAJ [825]. Fax 079/6666 4444. www.tajhotels.com. gateway.ahmedabad@tajhotels.com. Rs 10,000 Garden view room, Rs 10,500 Superior Pool View Room, Rs 18,500 Executive Suite, Rs 25,000 Deluxe Suite (6% tax extra; for best rates and deals check online). AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; airport transfers from Rs 400; babysitting; gym; pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs225/hr.).

Veg Out for Under $1

One of the highlights of traveling to Gujarat is sampling the local cuisine, which differs from the richer Rajasthani fare, and the Gujarati’s are rightfully proud of