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—a tasty, slightly sweet style of vegetarian cooking. Order at least one Gujarati thali, the state staple, which is a simple platter of a number of seasonal vegetarian dishes. These may include bindi (okra), aloo (potato), bhaigan (brinjal) or dhobi (cauliflower) or a mix of all of these with side dishes of dhal, pickles, atchar (spicy) and chutneys (sweet) accompanied by a variety of breads (chappati’s, naan). It is customary at lunch or/and dinner to scoff one of these reasonably priced (usually around Rs 100) “all you can eat” meals with your right hand, washed down with a chilled glass of buttermilk and followed by a cleansing cup of cardamom spiced masala chai. For one of the most simple, no-frills, authentic vegetarian dining experiences in Gujarat, head for Gopi Dining Hall on Pritamrai Road ( 079/657 6388). Staff here has been efficiently and graciously serving its loyal patrons some of the tastiest, freshest Gujarati and Kathiawadi thalis in Gujarat at ridiculously low prices (Rs 40–Rs 75) for years; as a result it’s a hot spot for locals and Westerners alike (which means you may need to wait for a short while).

WHERE TO DINE

Agashiye GUJARATI Set on the rooftop terrace of the House of Mangaldas Hotel, this is one of the best restaurants in Gujarat for both traditional Gujarat, Indian, and Continental fare, and at night is a great spot to escape from the chaos of the streets. Chill out on the cushions and await what will definitely be a delicious meal—prices are high by local standards but venue alone is well worth the few dollars more. If money is an issue simply eat downstairs at the Green House, which is just as good, but far noisier, serving extensive lunchtime meals outside including tasty, local flavored ice creams (try the rose or litchi).

House of Mangaldas Heritage Hotel. Dr. Tankaria Rd., across from Sidi Sayyid’s Mosque, Lal Darwaja. 079/2550-6946.www.houseofmg.com. Main courses Rs 200–Rs 300. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.

Vishala GUJARATI Apparently unable to get a permit for a restaurant, the owner of Vishala cunningly constructed a small traditional village-style open-air restaurant, set in lush grounds, and included a home for his personal Utensil Museum, with thousands of unique and fascinating artifacts from stirrups, nut crackers and pots to bellows, chapati carriers, and dowry boxes (look out for a pot that is over 1,000 years old!). The food is excellent and serves all-you-can-eat traditional vegetarian thalis on long wooden tables while you are seated on the floor. We recommend you make an evening of it and arrive early to tour the museum and then take in the post-prandial entertainment of traditional dance and music, and delicious ice cream.

On the southern edge of town across from Vasana Tol Naka. 079/26602422. Lunch from Rs120; dinners from Rs 200. No credit cards. Daily 11am–3pm and 8–11pm.

2 Kutch / Kuchchh / Kachchh

Bounded on its north and east by marshy salt flats and desert scrub known as the Greater and Little Ranns, and on the southwest by the Gulf of Kutch and the Arabian Sea, the province of Kutch is a distinct realm in every sense, and the most worthwhile expedition in Gujarat. Arguably closer to Pakistan and its pre-Partition Sind populace, the landscapes alone are beautiful if you like arid, barren, bleak vistas: Northern Kutch or the Banni area is semidesert with no perennial rivers and dry, acacia thorn scrub—in stark contrast is the color used and displayed by its local tribes who rely on livestock and the sale of their distinctive handicraft and art. With some research and preparation (read Judy Frater’s excellent book Threads of Identity, Mapin Publishing, 1995; see box below) meeting and trading with the local inhabitants could very well be the most memorable and inspiring part of your visit to India.

Note: You will need a permit to visit the villages north of Bhuj and although this is easy to arrange, and is free, it takes a little time and patience. Take an extra photograph and a copy of your passport and visa (including the originals) and present yourself to