India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [508]
Shepherds Realms Camps & Adventures (C-8/8115, Shepherd’s House, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi; 011/2649-2849 or 98-1871-2970; www.asiasafari.com), run by an ex-army captain, specializes in custom-made motorcycle and 4X4 safaris through Ladakh, as well as Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan, along with other adventure activities in these regions.
Besides organizing trekking in Himachal and Ladakh, Himalayan Journeys The Adventure Company (The Mall, Manali; 01902/25-4397;www.himalayanjourneysindia.com) arranges ski courses, jeep safaris, river-rafting expeditions, mountain-biking tours, and, for well-heeled adventurers, luxury heli-skiing packages.
With 32 years in the business, Naushad Kaludi of Antrek Tour and Travels (1, Rambagh, The Mall, Manali; 01902/25-2292 or 98-1602-2292; www.antrek.co.in) offers a professional and very reliable service and specializes in putting together combination tours that include several days of trekking plus a few days of jeep safari; you can mix and match your journey to suit particular tastes and interest, and ask for a mix of camping and hotels or guesthouses; Antrek will provide dome tents, sleeping bags, a guide, a cook, an assistant, ponies and porters, as well as the vehicle and driver, and all meals and beverages—on average you’ll be looking at spending 50€ to 70€ per person per day for a private two-person trip. Antrek can also provide all the ground services for mountain bike tours, and a range of specialty excursions, from trout fishing to climbing with proper equipment and serious guides.
A highly recommended alternative for exploring Himachal’s remote and sensationally beautiful Spiti Valley is Ecosphere ( 94-1886-0099 or 98-9949-2417; www.spitiecosphere.com), a social enterprise that has pioneered homestays and community participation in the tourism industry by working at the grassroots level. Led by the dynamic Ishita Khanna, this is responsible tourism at its best and the income generated goes towards various conservation and development projects besides creating employment. Other than the fact that you will be directly interacting and aiding the rural communities, it is a wonderful opportunity to see the spectacular Spiti countryside and experience the perfect blend of jeep safaris and hiking, with the occasional yak to ride as well.
For details on more active vacations in this region see the individual sections on Manali, Dharamsala, and Leh later in this chapter.
2 Amritsar & The Golden Temple
410km (254 miles) NW of Delhi
Amritsar (pronounced Um-rit-sir) has been the capital of the Sikh religion since the 16th century. Located in the northwestern state of Punjab, a wealthy and prosperous region and home to the majority of India’s Sikhs, Amritsar is also the unlikely site of India’s most dazzling temple. A shimmering monument in marble, bronze, and gold leaf, and a vivid architectural celebration of Sikhism’s devotion (a faith that actively preaches unity and equality among all religions), The Golden Temple is both fascinating and spiritually invigorating, combining sheer physical beauty with a truly sacred atmosphere. The way in which its devotees worship is enough to hold your attention—and your heart—completely captive.
The Five “K’s”: How to Spot a Sikh
Most Sikh men wear turbans wrapped around their heads and sport full beards, making them highly distinctively recognizable in all parts of the world. However, there are five other symbols—known as the five K’s (kakkar in Punjabi)—worn by Sikh men to indicate that they are part of Guru Gobind Singh’s sacred Khalsa brotherhood, which unites all Sikhs and are said to be emblems of purity and courage. Traditionally, a Sikh man does not cut his hair or shave his beard; ask him