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why and he’ll tell you that one of the tenets of Sikhism is to avoid interfering with nature. This unshorn hair is known as the kesh, and is kept neat with a wooden comb known as the kangha. As a symbol of dignity and power, he carries a saber or sword, known as the kirpan, at all times—usually these days it’s a small, symbolic sword, and you’ll also see some Sikh women carrying them. You won’t see it, but a Sikh man wears loose underpants known as the kachera said to symbolize modesty. Finally, look on his right wrist: The karra is a traditional bangle of iron or steel that indicates fearlessness and strength; pick one up as a reminder of your visit—there are thousands for sale at any of the many stalls and shops directly outside The Golden Temple.

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION The best place to get information about the Golden Temple and the Sikh faith is at the temple’s own Information Office ( 0183/255-3954; Apr–June daily 7:30am–7:30pm, July–Mar daily 8am–7pm). The Punjab government’s tourist office ( 0183/240-2452; http://punjabgovt.nic.in; Mon–Sat 9am–5pm) is at the Palace Hotel, opposite the railway station, but you’ll get a better introduction to the city from someone at your hotel or guesthouse.

GETTING THERE & AWAY You can fly from Delhi with Kingfisher ( 1800-233-3131), Jet Airways (Main Market, Ranjit’s Ave. Shopping Complex; 0183/250-8003) or Indian Airlines (39A Court Rd.; 0183/221-3392, -3393, or -3141; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm), but the best way to get here is on the Shatabdi Express or the overnight Golden Temple Mail from Delhi—it is far more economical and quite a comfortable option. Taxis, auto-rickshaws, and bicycle-rickshaws are always available at the station to take you to your hotel, whereas if you fly, you’ll be at the mercy of the overpriced prepaid taxi counter, with charges into the city starting at around Rs 700. You’ll want to avoid spending time tracking down tickets, so either book your return or onward journey in advance, or have your hotel handle your reservation. If you’re stuck, there is a computerized train reservation facility located at the Golden Temple complex.

GETTING AROUND Note that any of the accommodation options reviewed below will make all your transport and sightseeing arrangements for you. A half-day sightseeing trip (4 hr.) costs Rs 800 to Rs 1,200, and a full 8 hours will be Rs 1,100 to Rs 2,000, depending on the quality of the vehicle. Should you want a guide, you’ll need to add another Rs 750 to Rs 1,200. Auto-rickshaws are useful within Amritsar itself, especially since the roads are so terribly congested, but they’re too slow for trips to Wagah border, for which you should arrange a car, and perhaps share it with fellow guests. If you’re looking for a friendly, reliable auto-rickshaw wallah, try giving Bunty a ring on 94-6352-2971. Cycle-rickshaws are popular, but if you’re in a hurry, don’t want to deal with the glaring sun, or need to cover more than a few miles, opt for a car or auto-rickshaw instead.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS

The Golden Temple Prepare to be humbled by the most tangibly spiritual place in the country, one that, in its status as a living monument, even has the edge on the Taj Mahal. Arrive with a few good hours set aside and get lost in its magical beauty. Leave your shoes at the free facility near the entrance, cover your head (bandanas are provided, or you can purchase a “Golden Temple” souvenir bandana from a vendor), and wash your feet by wading through the shallow pool before entering. The most sacred part of the complex is Hari Mandir Sahib (Divine Temple) or Darbar Sahib (Court of the Lord), which you’ll instantly recognize as the marble-and-gold sanctuary at the center of a large body of water within the temple complex. The name “Golden Temple” comes from this gold-plated building, which features copper cupolas and white marble walls encrusted with precious stones arranged in decorative floral patterns that show strong Islamic influence. Four chattris flank the structure, which is decorated inside and out with verses from the Granth Sahib (the