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(Raj Bhavan Rd.; 0177/262-3919;www.woodvillepalacehotel.com; doubles with all meals from Rs 7,370 and up, excluding 10% tax; ask for a room in the new block; suites cost twice as much). Nevertheless, its location in the posh Raj Bhavan area is superb, surrounded as it is by large gardens—a luxury in Shimla. It also has some fantastic furniture and antiques, some of it unfortunately languishing dispiritedly in corners, along with great photographic displays that provide an interesting insight into the lives of Indian royalty. If, however, you want a full-service luxury hotel in Shimla itself, the Cecil is the top choice (reviewed below); it’s only competition—but without any historical ambience—is the Radisson Hotel Shimla (Good wood Estate, Lower Bharari; 0177/265-9012;www.radisson.com), which takes full advantage of the views from an unbeautiful block that juts out from the side of the hill. Rooms are characteristically modern and sleek, but you’ll surely miss the ambience of the heritage properties. The best rates—from around Rs 5,525 double—are available online.

Another interesting option, especially if you’re traveling with family and prefer a degree of independence, is Violet Hill ( 98-1544-2233), a gorgeous three-bedroom self-contained cottage in verdant Mashobra. It costs Rs 15,000 per night with the promise of fine home-style meals (breakfast Rs 200, lunch and dinner Rs 400) and ever-splendid scenery amid immaculate gardens with bikes on hand to explore the surrounding forest terrain. Also in Mashobra, an even better deal, but perhaps not quite as pretty, is Forest Hill Villas ( 011/4053-3992; www.foresthillvillas.com), a massive three-story cottage with room for up to 10 guests (in three bedrooms and the attic; Rs 10,000 per night). You have to cook for yourself, and there’s a decent kitchen for you to do so—kindly supplied with basic provisions, including vegetables and milk.

Or, if you prefer things ultramodern, check out the outrageously beautiful and upmarket Clairmont Mashobra (www.clairmont-mashobra.com), which opened in 2009—ensconced in utter luxury with the finest contemporary design details, you’ll have the pleasure of enjoying utterly matchless views across Mashobra’s thick forest—and you’ll have the experience all to yourself, with personal chef to cater to any whim.

Cecil Open since 1884, the Cecil has hosted the likes of Mahatma Gandhi and continues to draw political bigwigs, celebrities, and vacationing families, kids in tow. It was rebuilt in the Gothic style of Shimla’s most elegant Raj monuments, and the interiors are luxurious with plenty of wood paneling, leather, and opulent furniture. Guest rooms follow through with old fashioned good taste and a sophisticated period ambience that’s typical of the Oberoi’s classic design ethos; the much-larger premiere rooms have walk-in closets and a large bathroom with separate tub and shower. Request a south-facing room (nos. 411–415 are best) with spectacular views of the Shimla Valley foothills. While you’re being pampered in the spa, kids have their own entertainment hub, with everything from a doll’s house to video games, and staff doesn’t seem to mind them playing in the public areas, too (if you want a quiet, romantic getaway, head for Wildflower Hall). This is a less intimate, personal experience than Chapslee, but exceptional nonetheless.

Chaura Maidan, Shimla 171 004. 0177/280-4848 or 1600/11-2030 toll-free reservations in India. Fax 0177/281-1024. www.oberoihotels.com. reservations@oberoigroup.com. 75 units (most with tub, 8 with shower only). Rs 14,850 deluxe double; Rs 17,050 premier double; Rs 27,500 deluxe suite; Rs 33,000 luxury suite. 10% tax extra. Book online for best rate of the day and multiday specials. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge bar, garden lounge; airport transfers (Rs 1,800 plus tax); babysitting; billiards room; children’s activity center; health club and spa; library; heated indoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, central heating, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 300/hr.; Rs 800/24 hr.).

Chapslee Chapslee