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remains the quintessential creaky-floorboards Shimla homestead, its Raj-era aura hardly dented by modern conveniences or the slightly fraying Art Deco wallpaper and faded tapestries. Owned and lovingly managed by Ratanjit “Reggie” Singh, the regal grandson of Raja Charanjit Singh of Kapurthala, this charming home is the most authentically old-world lodging in town. Originally built in 1835 as the summer residence of a British family, the house received an Edwardian face-lift in 1896 with teak paneling (part of the same consignment used for the Viceregal Lodge), wood parquet floors, and a dramatic staircase. Be sure to request either of the two upstairs suites; the original master bedrooms in each afford lovely valley views (glorious at sunset), a massive brass four-poster bed, and delicate ornamentation, as well as a vast bathroom with a raised tub, an enormous shower, a bidet, and its own fireplace. Chapslee’s kitchen prepares British-influenced dishes, as well as delectable tandoori chicken and mouthwatering shami kebabs, all served by hard-working white-gloved attendants as you dine with your aristocratic host.

Lakkar Bazaar, Shimla 171 001. 0177/280-2542. Fax 0177/265-8663. www.chapslee.com. chapslee@vsnl.com. 6 units. Rs 12,500–Rs 15,500 double; add 50% per extra person. Rates include breakfast, dinner, taxes, and service charges. MC, V. Amenities: Dining room, lounge; card room; croquet; Internet (for e-mail checking); library; tennis court. In room: Fireplace. no phone.

Wildflower Hall Smack-dab in the middle of magnificent deodar cedar forests, atop its own hill 300m (1,000 ft.) above Shimla, surrounded by swirling mist and snowy peaks, this remake of the fire-gutted mountain retreat of Lord Kitchener is the ideal setting for a beautifully eerie alpine fantasy. Affording show-stopping views of some of the most scenic mountains and valleys in India, this opulent resort offers lovely service and top-notch facilities—it’s romantic, but sedate, and you’ll need to head outdoors to make the most of your time here (difficult, perhaps, since rooms are so cosseting). There are many adventure activities to put you in touch with the great outdoors, whether on foot, on horseback, or rafting the waters of the Sutlej. And for more laidback pastimes, book at least one session at the spa. Besides traditional Ayurvedic treatments, therapists offer a series of tantalizing touch therapies, Hungarian body wrap treatments, and combination rituals; after being thoroughly pampered head for the outdoor Jacuzzi, perched on the lip of a vast mountain wilderness.

Chharabra, Shimla 171 012. 1800/11-2030 toll-free reservations in India, or 0177/264-8585. Fax 0177/264-8686. www.oberoihotels.com. reservations@wildflowerhall.com. 85 units. Rs 22,500 premier double, Rs 24,500 premier mountain view double, Rs 40,500 deluxe suite, Rs 60,500 Lord Kitchener Suite. Rates exclude 10% tax. AE, DC, MC, V. No children under 12. Amenities: 2 restaurants, bar, lounge; airport transfers (Rs 2,500 plus tax); archery; bikes and mountain-biking trails; billiards room; card room; concierge; croquet; DVD library; golf (at Naldehra); health club and spa; hiking trails; horseback riding; ice-skating rink (mid-Dec to mid-Mar); outdoor Jacuzzi; library; heated indoor pool; rafting; room service; tennis court (summer); yoga & meditation. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, butler, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr.; Rs 800/day).

Hole up in a Himalayan fortress

Shimla itself is not a particularly relaxing town, and unless you’re sequestered in one of the smart hotels, or able to splash out on the peaceable surrounds on offer at Wildflower Hall, it really doesn’t make too much sense to stick around. If you’ve got a car and driver, another fine option is Nalagarh ( 01795/22-3179, -3009, or -3667; www.nalagarh.in), a glorious white-and-blue palatial fort a few hours north of Shimla and one of the finest heritage properties in the state. Built in 1421, Nalagarh, surrounded by sprawling lawns, offers a degree of eccentricity coupled with enough period character that will ensure