India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [522]
WHERE TO DINE
Shimla has no dearth of dining options, but the town definitely suffers from a lack of quality specialty venues—most places tend to spread their bets in their attempt to satisfy the tastes of tourists, most of whom come from India’s cities. Of these bland, mostly anonymous joints, your best bet is probably Baljee’s (26 The Mall; 0177/265-2313), where there’s plenty of choice (stick to the Indian dishes, though, unless you’re dead-set on a substandard burger or uninteresting Chinese), and the mix of diners provides decent entertainment. If you want to have a taste of a local specialty, then don’t miss the aloo sabzi and poori (potato curry with deep-fried pancakelike bread) at Mehar Chand (Lower Bazaar; 0177/265-3402), which also sells Indian sweets. But, honestly, the only place in Shimla where you’ll find consistently spectacular and authentic Himachal specialties is at The Restaurant at the Cecil hotel (reviewed above)—the baluchi raan (tandoor roasted lamb leg flavored with mace, cardamom, and saffron) in particular is excellent, and there are eight different Himachali specialty dishes available per day.
Finally, high tea at Wildflower Hall is legendary—sample the local infusions along with traditional Irish tea brack bread—a baked reminder of the Raj, speckled with raisins and sultanas, steeped in Darjeeling tea, and served with unsalted butter and lemon curd. The restaurant at Wildflower is arguably the best in the state, where you can satisfy most cravings—everything, from traditional Chaa gosht (a Himachali preparation of baby lamb in yogurt) to delicious ravioli and risotto, is prepared with a masterful hand.
4 Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul
The arid, dust-covered, snowcapped slopes in the Indo-Tibetan regions of Kinnaur, Spiti, and Lahaul are the stuff adventurers’ dreams are made of, offering sublime mountainscapes, twisting roads, and fascinating Tibetan Buddhist communities with atmospheric gompas (monasteries). Negotiating the rough, drop-off ledges of the Hindustan-Tibet Road (bizarrely enough, known as “National Highway” 22) is an action-packed art in itself, and the impossible road is made all the more unnerving when buses, trucks, and jeeps headed in the opposite direction seem to appear out of nowhere. Although the spectacular scenery is undoubtedly the highlight of any trip through Kinnaur and Spiti, there are also marvelous monuments, including some of the world’s most intriguing Buddhist complexes (such as the World Heritage Site of Tabo Monastery in Spiti), as well as high-altitude villages that seem to cling to the sides of mountains or balance on the edges of sharp cliffs.
Kinnaur, Spiti & Lahaul
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION Pick up information from the tourism office in Shimla (or Manali if you’re doing the trip in reverse), and make detailed inquiries regarding accessibility and weather developments. Ajay Sud, an ex-army captain and adventurer who together with Rajesh Ojha founded Banjara Camps, is one of the best sources of information, tips, and assistance in the Kinnaur region. He’s also a very experienced trekker and can give great advice and suggestions for treks throughout the Himalayas. He and the equally helpful Rajesh take turns manning the Sangla camp; best to reach either through the head office (1A Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi 110 016; 011/2686-1397; fax 011/2685-5152; www.banjaracamps.com).
If you’d like to have a more interactive vacation, staying with (and getting to know) local folk, contact Ecosphere (Ishita Khanna; 98-99492417 or 01906/22-2724; www.spitiecosphere.com). Ecosphere has pioneered homestays and grassroots community participation in the Spiti region and can