India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [523]
You Can’t Eat Plastic
Obtaining cash against credit cards can be problematic in more remote parts of Himachal Pradesh (such as Kinnaur and Spiti) and anywhere in Ladakh outside Leh. Make sure you draw cash (easiest at ATMs) in the tourist hubs of Shimla, Dharamsala, and Manali before heading into the mountains.
GETTING AROUND Ultra-budget-conscious travelers undertake the journey on what seems like a wing and a prayer in state buses that rely on luck as much as faith to reach their destination, while born-to-be-wild adventurers do it on the back of a motorbike—sign up with Capt. Raaj Kumar of Shepherds Realms (see “Staying Active” above). For the rest, we highly recommend renting a jeep and driver—the heftier the jeep (a Toyota Qualis or a Mahindra Scorpio), the better your chances of actually enjoying the adventure. Most of the villages can be explored on foot, and the region lends itself to trekking (see “Staying Active,” earlier in this chapter). For one-stop shopping, we recommend you utilize the services of Banjara Camps (see “Visitor Information,” above), which offers most of the best lodging options in the area and can arrange your entire jeep safari. Based in Tabo, Phuntsok Dhuondup ( 94-1857-6181 or 01906/22-3452; www.spitivalley.com) is a reliable driver—a former Buddhist monk, he has many interesting stories to tell along the way.
INNER LINE PERMITS Foreigners may not travel through the zone closest to the Tibetan border without first obtaining an Inner Line Permit from one of several government offices in Himachal. It’s a fairly easy, if laborious and potentially frustrating, process (taking anywhere from 3 hr. to a whole day); although you can have a travel agent in Shimla handle this for you (you will need your passport, three passport-size photographs, and two copies of both the main page of your passport and your visa), we strongly recommend that you apply in Reckong Peo, where one agent at the so-called Tourist Information Centre (Mr. Bhagwan Negi; 94-1811-9617) handles all applications and does so with the least possible amount of fuss. The permit, arranged here, will cost Rs 150 and does not require any photos; permits are usually issued at 11am and 3pm (Mon–Sat only). Fill in your application and you’ll be asked to report back before being led to the Deputy Commissioner’s Building for a personal appearance and photograph which will be printed directly onto the permit. It takes a few hours, but use the time to check out the views from the village of Kalpa, a few miles above Reckong Peo. Another way of dealing with the slow pace is to apply and then collect your papers the following day after overnighting in beautiful Kalpa nearby. It’s a good idea to phone ahead to ensure that the SDM office ( 01786/222-253; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm) is definitely open on the day you plan to apply.
THE JOURNEY: KINNAUR & SPITI IN 7 DAYS
This itinerary is designed for a slightly more leisurely journey through the Kinnaur and Spiti valleys than you may have time for. This is not an area to be covered in a hurry—rather extend your vacation, or you’ll spend most of your trip regretting that you have to return at all. If you’re pressed for time, you could probably shave off a day or two, but you’re likely to be shell-shocked by the end of it if you don’t. If you’re really short on time, but want to see the Spiti Valley and take in a couple of its Buddhist villages and monasteries, you can forgo the trip through Kinnaur and instead make your way into Spiti from Manali; the trip from Manali to Kaza (the main hub in Spiti) takes a full day. If you’re journeying this