India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [524]
Day 1 & 2: Shimla to Sangla
Heading east out of Shimla, “National Highway” 22 takes you to Narkanda (2,708m/8,882 ft.), a ski resort (Jan–Mar) where you can take in excellent views from Hatu Peak. Then continue north past the commercial town of Rampur, a former princely capital. The road descends towards the raging Sutlej River, following its contours until you come upon the dusty village of Jeori. From here, a twisting, hairpin-heavy climb leads to the charming village of Sarahan (2,165m/7,101 ft., 6 hr. from Shimla), which enjoys spectacular views of the snowcapped peaks across the river. Trapped in time, Sarahan is the site of the famous pagoda-style Bhimakali Temple.
Once you’ve satisfied your curiosity at the temple, follow the same road back down to Jeori. About 3km (2 miles) ahead of Karchham (Baspa-Sutlej Junction), take a U-turn to come back to Karcham and then follow the steep dirt tracks (the road from Karcham to Sangla is fairly wide now, and two small cars/jeeps can comfortably pass by each other) of the Sangla Valley , through which the raging Baspa River flows. You won’t find any flashy accommodations, but comfortable Banjara Sangla Valley Camp & Retreat , 8km (5 miles) beyond Sangla, is an excellent place to spend a night or two, and serves as the perfect base from which to explore the remote hamlet of Chitkul (3,450m/11,316 ft.). Tents are set up in a gorgeous open meadow (wildflowers in full bloom July–Oct) alongside the Baspa River, beneath towering Khargala Peak. Besides the well-established camp, there are now also a handful of spacious, immaculate rooms in a low-rise building built overlooking the river near the campsite. A night in one of the Swiss tents (with attached showers that dispense hot water at the flick of a switch) costs Rs 5,500 double, including all meals and taxes, while the Retreat rooms are Rs 6,000. Make use of the opportunity to pick the brains of Banjara founders Ajay or Rajesh (one of whom is generally in camp) for details of the best treks in the area. Both are wonderful hosts (as is Sonu, the camp manager), with plenty of ideas for what you can do (besides lying in one of the inviting hammocks overlooking the river). Evening mealtimes kick off with predinner drinks and snacks around the bonfire, which can be quite sociable; besides the standard buffet, there’s an optional barbeque, and there’s nothing stopping you from picking up fresh fish from a local farm (the area is known for trout fishing) and asking the kitchen team to grill it for you. The setting is scintillating, and you’ll regret not spending 2 nights, especially after the exhausting full-day drive spent getting here; and if you do have trouble getting here—or get caught up or delayed—call 98-1811-9871 or 98-1695-9904 for assistance.
If You Have More Time
To break up the journey, you can add an extra day or two right at the start with a side-trip to the apple-growing slopes at Thanedar. From Narkanda, a 16km (10-mile) detour off the main highway brings you to the vast orchards, heavy with fruit in summer, and best visited in August/September during the apple harvest. Set in the midst of this sea of apple trees is the modern, whitewashed Banjara Orchard Retreat, its pleasant rooms decked with thick, colorful throws and attached bathrooms. It’s a very comfortable place to kick back and relax and enjoy astonishingly beautiful sunsets. Prakash Thakur, host and owner of this small retreat, is also the resident expert on local history and culture, and you can request a guide to take you for an innervating 3-hour trek through the shady forest. Evenings are spent around a bonfire, where Prakash serves up anecdotes, paneer-on-a-toothpick, and spicy chicken snacks before an Indian buffet is laid out. Taste the homemade apple juice, chutneys, and other concoctions Prakash